33 8 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



Over-potting must be avoided, pots a couple of inches more in diameter than those from 

 which the plants are transferred being ample at each shift. When the plants come into 

 bearing, and it is not desired to increase the size of the pots more than can be helped, 

 potting need only be performed every second or third year, and by reducing the ball of 

 roots so as to admit an inch of fresh soil all round, and at the bottom by cutting off the 

 lower portion of the ball, they may be kept in the same size of pots, or a little larger, 

 indefinitely. Pot firmly so that the fresh soil will be as compact as the old ball of roots. 



Tubbing is performed in much the same manner as potting ; the chief points are to 

 provide apertures and plenty of drainage for the free escape of surplus water. Avoid 

 large shifts. Every third year, as a rule, is often enough to re-tub the trees ; but 

 whenever a tree becomes unhealthy, no time should be lost in giving a change of soil, 

 and it ought to have been attended to sooner. 



In planting trees from pots, loosen the sides of the ball, after removing the drainage. 

 Keep the collar rather high, and ram the compost firmly about the roots. The soil in all 

 cases should be rather dry, and a good watering given after potting, tubbing, or planting 

 out. 



Watering. The trees require copious supplies of water when growing, never allowing 

 them to suffer by the want of it ; yet making the soil sodden and sour speedily causes the 

 destruction of the roots, and the foliage assumes a sickly hue. Let the soil become 

 rather dry prior to watering, and before the foliage becomes limp afford a thorough 

 supply, always moistening the soil through to the drainage. In winter afford sufficient 

 water, yet no more than is necessary to preserve the foliage in health. 



Feeding. When the trees are restricted at the roots, and swelling the fruit, liquid 

 made from cow or sheep manure may be given along with soot water occasionally, using 

 it clear and not too strong. Trees in large pots, tubs, or planted out may have the old 

 surface soil removed without much disturbance of the roots, and fresh loam and manure 

 supplied in advance of growth. A sprinkling of two parts superphosphate, and one 

 part each of nitrate of potash and sulphate of lime, mixed, is, perhaps, the best 

 fertiliser for guavas, but it must only be applied in moderate quantities at a time. 



Thinning the Fruit. When guavas become established they are heavy bearers, and 

 require to have the fruit thinned, or it will be small and poor next to worthless for 

 dessert, and very indifferent for jelly. The fruits left should have room to swell to the 

 size of a walnut without touching each other. The pear-shaped guava requires to have 

 the fruit at least three times further apart than that of the strawberry guava. 



