8 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



the bed is covered. In the course of a day or two the soil will be warmed through ; then 

 the plants may be put out, but it is advisable to make sure that the heat does not exceed 

 90 to 100 at the base of the hillocks before doing so. 



Planting. Select the shortest-jointed plants. These may be of two descriptions 

 1, those which have one leaf, and showing the next with the growing point beyond the 

 seed leaves ; 2, plants stopped at the second rough leaf and pushing side-growths. In 

 either case turn the pot upside down, gently tap the rim against the edge of the 

 frame, and the ball will come out entire. Plant this immediately in the centre of the 

 cone, the top of the hillock being dished a little to hold water, and after pressing the soil 

 firmly round the ball, give a gentle watering ; but if the soil is moist this may be omitted 

 early in the season, as damp is then the chief enemy to be guarded against. A ring of 

 dry soot or quicklime drawn around each plant a short distance from the stem is the 

 best safeguard against slugs and injury by damp. Two plants may be placed on each 

 hillock early in the season for first crops, but later one plant is ample for each light of 

 an ordinary-sized melon-frame. 



The plants must not be buried deeper in the soil than within an inch of the seed 

 leaves. Short stems are the best ; if long, the plants fall over, grow one-sided, and the 

 stems may snap or fall a prey to canker. 



Training. Stopped at the second rough leaf, the plants will push a shoot from the axils 

 of the main leaves, and in some varieties one from each of the axils of the seed leaves 

 (/, Fig. 1). These may be left to form the four primary shoots when nearly of equal 

 vigour, two being trained to the front, and two to the back of the frame ; but the shoots 

 from the seed leaves are generally weaker than those from the base of the rough leaves, 

 and in that case it is better to rub off the former and originate more of the latter 

 character, as shown in J (Fig. 1). If two plants are placed in a hillock, the two shoots 

 proceeding from the base of the two rough leaves are sufficient to leave on each plant 

 respectively. This must be kept in view, for over-crowding the growths is fatal to free 

 setting and fine fruits. Two principal growths at the front and two at the back are suffi- 

 cient for each light. These should be trained at equal distances apart, and should not 

 be less than 18 inches asunder. They will grow rapidly and throw out laterals, which, 

 however, should be rubbed off as soon as they appear to the extent of 6 inches from the 

 stem ; this not only keeps the stem clear and less liable to canker, but invigorates the 

 principal growths. "When these are short-jointed it is desirable to rub off every alter- 

 nate lateral on opposite sides, but when the growths are long-jointed all may remain. 



