IZ 



THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



up to the dotted lines, and will require renewal or additions, according to circumstances, 

 for maintaining the proper temperature. 



Economising Heat. If melons are grown in pits or frames, the means being limited 

 to the making-up of a bed to give the plants a start, it becomes imperative to husband as 

 much of the sun's heat as possible. By its agency excellent melons may be had in 

 August and September in pits and frames which have been employed up to May in 

 forcing radishes, potatoes, and forwarding plants for bedding or other purposes. A 

 barrow-load of soil in each light, in the form of a flattish mound, and 3 inches of soil 

 over the rest of the bed, is ample. "When the soil is warmed through, a strong plant may 

 be placed in the centre of the mound early in June. The warmth of the bed and the 

 sun heat, with requisite moisture, will carry the plants along quickly. Admit a little 

 air early in the morning, and increase it when the thermometer reaches 80, which it 

 will do by 8 or 9 A.M. in May and later in the season. Always tilt the lights at the 



back by using a wedge (Fig. 3), made out of an inch deal 

 board, cut with a saw to represent steps, the first 1 inch 

 wide and 1^ inch long, cut slantingly, so that the lights 

 can be elevated 5 or 1 inch. The other notches are 1| inch 

 wide and long, and are generally four in number. 



This method of ventilating is far better than pushing 

 rig. 3. NOTCH FOB VENTILATING, down the lights, and causing a current of cold air to rush 



through the frame. The lights may be closed about 3 P.M., 



sooner or later, according to the weather, after a free use of tepid water to every part 

 plants, soil, walls, or woodwork. If, after closing, the sun's rays do not raise the tem- 

 perature above 95, no harm will ensue ; but if the heat rise above 100, admit a little 

 air. The frame should be closed before the temperature falls below 80, and if the sun 

 raise the heat 10 to 15 after closing, so much the better. 



Adding Soil. Layers of fresh warm soil must be added to the hillocks as roots pro- 

 trude through them, for it does not answer to cover the whole bed at once with the full 

 depth of soil, except in the case of plants which are not put out before the end of May 

 and afterwards. About three earthings are required, at intervals of two or three weeks, 

 to cover the bed all over to a depth of 6 inches. This will leave the stems slightly 

 elevated, and so prevent water resting against them. In all cases the soil should be made 

 firm, and the final earthing completed without damaging the growths. 



Admitting Air. In the early stages, when the external air is keen, a cold inrush 



