20 THE FRUIT GROWERS GUIDE. 



the lateral is usually stopped one or two joints beyond the fruit at the time of fertilisa- 

 tion, as represented in Fig. 7, V. By the other methods the laterals or sub-laterals 

 may either be pinched when the flowers are fertilised or when the fruit commences 

 swelling with certainty. The operations of setting the fruits and stopping the growths 

 are shown in the illustration. 



Cropping. Only one fruit should be left on a lateral or sub-lateral ; if two are set, 

 select the best and remove the other. Avoid over-cropping. A variety with fruits 

 weighing about 2 pounds each may bring to perfection six in the same space that another 

 variety would only produce three in of 5 to 6 pounds each, or four of 4 pounds each. 

 Quality stands before everything in melons ; therefore, never over-crop. A Scarlet Gem, 

 Egyptian, or Pine Apple melon may perfect six fruits in a space of trellis 6 feet by 4 feet, 

 for these high-quality kinds are more exacting than the coarse, watery-fruited varieties. 



Supporting the Fruit. A small board, 6 to 7 inches square, of ^-inch deal, with a 

 hole burned through each corner and a piece of string or wire passed through each hole 

 and properly secured, for tying to the trellis, is a useful method and generally practised. 

 The board should be suspended in an inclining position so that water cannot rest upon 

 it. Two pieces of string crossed at the middle round the fruit, and the four ends tied 

 to the trellis, are sometimes employed, but a better plan is to cut tanned herring-net in 

 pieces about 1 foot square, secure a piece of string or wire to each corner, pass the net 

 under the fruit, and secure it by the strings or wires to the trellis. The support must be 

 placed beneath each fruit before it becomes very heavy, to prevent its breaking the growth 

 and collapsing, or, when ripening, from being detached at the stalk, and ruined by 

 falling. 



Shading. Except in very hot weather, and in bright periods after dull days, melons 

 require little shading. Flagging, however, must be prevented by a temporary light 

 material placed over the plants until they become established after planting ; also it may 

 be necessary to afford a light shading when the fruit is swelling. Melons, however, 

 generally bear the full rays of the sun when active at the roots, and sturdy in growth 

 through proper ventilation. 



Temperature and Ventilation. Bottom heat of 75 at 3 inches from the surface of 

 the bed, and 80 at 9 inches depth, is ample for melons. The temperature may be ascer- 

 tained by a dipping thermometer with the bulb 10 to 12 inches from the surface of the 

 bed, and it should never register less than 75 nor more than 85. The plants require more 

 heat when setting, swelling, and perfecting their fruit than in the early stages of growth. 



