34 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



planted to over-top the nuts, whilst in light soils the hardier kinds of pears, such as 

 Lammas, Hessle, and Swan's Egg, and in good soil apple trees, may be grown to shelter 

 the hushes. 



Nut trees like a good friable loam resting on sandstone, and thrive in somewhat 

 shallow loams onbrashy marl or shattery limestone. Land " full " of stones or fragments 

 of rock, with sufficient soil to render the whole compact, and the substratum open and 

 free from stagnant water, will grow, other conditions being favourable, excellent crops of 

 nuts. Strong, deep, rich, and damp soils cause the trees to produce too much wood to 

 be fruitful, and the heavily manured soil of gardens, particularly where the site is low, 

 tends to more growth than is favourable to fruit production. Therefore, the highest and 

 driest spot consistent with other surroundings should be chosen in private establishments 

 for the nut plantation. Land previously cultivated will not require much preparation, 

 but ground not already broken up must be properly prepared by trenching, and a thin, 

 sandy or brashy soil should have some manure mixed with it. 



Planting. It is a great saving of time to select and plant well-rooted, clean- stemmed 

 and well-branched trees, for they commence bearing as soon as they become well estab- 

 lished, whilst unshaped bushes occupy the ground three or four years unprofitably. 

 October, or when the leaves have fallen, is the "best time to plant nut bushes. Allow 10 

 or in good soil 1 2 feet distance between the trees each way. Some of the dwarf varie- 

 ties may be set closer. If the trees are intended to form a single row round a fruit 

 plantation they may be planted 8 to 10 feet asunder. When planting in orchards on grass 

 the stations should be properly prepared, mixing a little decayed manure with the soil 

 to give the trees a start. Firm the soil well, stake securely, and spread a little manure 

 on the soil over the roots. 



TRAINING AND PRUNING. 



Training. Plants that were shortened when placed in nursery rows ought to be kept 

 free of suckers, and the strongest shoot from each should be trained erect, removing 

 the others. Suckers that are planted in their final positions after being detached from the 

 parent bushes may be cut back to 18 inches from the ground, or, if the stem is con- 

 sidered too weak, the plants may be allowed to grow one season and then be shortened. 

 The object in every case is to secure a sturdy upright stem, 18 inches in height, a 

 number of strong growths at the upper part in consequence of the heading, and 12 to 

 15 inches of stem kept quite clear of shoots at the bottom. 



