S o THE FRUIT GROWERS GUIDE. 



quality to imported, yet the best results are had from trees planted in the ground 

 like peach trees, and either trained to trellises or grown as standards in orchard 

 houses. We have had great success in growing oranges in a pine stove. A border 

 was made 2 feet wide and 3 feet deep, 1 foot of rubble was placed in for drainage, 

 surfaced with a 3-inch layer of old mortar to keep it clear, the rest soil. A trellis 

 of galvanised No. 10 wire was fixed to the wall for securing the trees loosely. They 

 enjoyed the warmth, and the fruit was of the highest quality, and much appreciated. 



Orange trees and pines succeed well together where the pits or houses admit 

 of the combination. Orange trees also succeed fairly well in light, airy conservatories, 

 where they have a winter temperature of not less than 50. Lemons succeed under 

 similar conditions. Magnificent limes are grown against the back wall of a plant-house 

 by Mr. P. Crowley, Treasurer of the Eoyal Horticultural Society, and delicious jelly 

 is made from them. 



Oranges are well worthy of a house to themselves, a large, light, well heated and 

 ventilated span-roofed structure, with a pathway all round, the trees in a central bed, 

 and if possible a border for small trees between the pathway and sides of the house. 

 Bottom heat is not absolutely essential, but it is a great aid in successful orange 

 culture. Trees in pots can be stood on brick pedestals, as described for fig trees 

 (page 195, Vol. II.), and tan or leaves used around them. Pots containing small trees 

 can be plunged in the bed. To supply root warmth to trees in borders, a chamber 

 beneath the bed heated by hot-water pipes is best, the latter being provided with 

 valves so as to have the heat entirely under control. The section (Fig. 13) of an 

 orangery will explain the matter better than many words. 



Potting and Tubling. Over-potting is the greatest mistake made in orange culture. 

 Every two or three years is quite often enough to re-pot healthy trees. The best time 

 to interfere with the roots is from the early part of February to the end of March, 

 according to the variety and period of starting the trees. "Whatever the size of the 

 trees, pots or tubs, a shift should never be larger than to admit of 1 inch of fresh 

 compost all round the ball of roots. If badly rooted, the tree, instead of requiring a 

 larger pot or tub, should have a smaller one. A tree well rooted in a 7 -inch pot may 

 be shifted into a 9 -inch, and so on, and as the tree has to remain in the pot two or 

 three years, it ought to be placed in it carefully. Use clean pots only, and quite dry. 

 If they are new, soak them in water for a few hours, and afterwards let them stand 

 until their surfaces are dry. Good drainage is essential J therefore, select some of the 



