54 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



much pruning, and, as a rule, it should be confined to shortening any growths that are 

 inclined to take the lead, thinning the crowded, as well as removing the weaker parts 

 which have become unsatisfactory. Trees in pots or tubs can be kept compact by 

 pinching, but a somewhat free open growth gives the best crops of fruit. Trees on 

 trellises merely require the old wood cut out and a supply of young provided to main- 

 tain them in a bearing state. Just before starting into growth is the most suitable time 

 for pruning orange trees. The fruit is borne on the wood of the preceding year, chiefly 

 near the extremity of the growths ; therefore, an adequacy of the most promising must 

 be left in pruning. Aged trees frequently have too many short, stunted growths with 

 small foliage and indifferent fruit. By thinning the heads of trees in that condition, 

 taking away the weakest growths, and leaving a sufficiency of the best, evenly placed, 

 strong blossom is secured. 



Temperature, Moisture, and Ventilation. "When the trees are grown in pots they are 

 easily rested by moving them to a house with a temperature of 45 to 50 after the fruit 

 is gathered, letting them remain a month or six weeks before starting them into growth 

 again. Where the trees are planted in beds a winter temperature of 55, falling 5 on 

 very cold nights, with a day maximum of 65 from sun-heat, is suitable. About the 

 middle of February gradually advance the night temperature from 55 to 60 or 65 on 

 mild nights, rising to 70 or 75 with sun and air, and close the house for the day at 

 about 2 P.M. 



While the trees are in flower they must not be syringed, but a genial atmosphere 

 may be secured by damping the house occasionally, admitting air rather freely to dry 

 the pollen and secure a good set of fruit. When this is swelling syringe the trees, walls, 

 and paths early in the morning, ventilating carefully before the sun acts powerfully on 

 the house, to prevent the leaves scorching. Maintain a night temperature of 60 to 65, 

 70 to 75 by day, and close early in the afternoon to obtain 85 with sun-heat. Syringe 

 the trees well at the same time, and damp the house before nightfall. As the season 

 advances, the night temperature may range from 65 to 70, with an increase of 10 by 

 day, closing early so as to rise to 90 and 100 in the afternoon, syringing and damping 

 as before, except on dull or wet days. Ventilation should be continued freely throughout 

 the summer months, leaving a little opening for air all night. Discontinue syringing 

 when the fruit is changing colour, or the skin may be ruptured, and to further prevent 

 this keep the trees rather dry at the roots, and maintain a buoyant atmosphere. 



Trees of the St. Michael's varieties sometimes produce clusters of fragrant blossoms 



