7 8 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



sound part of it is that represented by the three buds below the bar, to which it is best 

 shortened, and then, if root action is also checked, better growths will follow. 



B is a similar shoot to A transformed into well-matured wood and fruitfulness by 

 the careful management of the laterals. By pinching these at the first joint and to 

 one afterwards, the buds at the base become round and plump blossom buds, from 

 base to extremity, yet with ample wood buds for supplying bearing shoots. It is an 

 excellent extension, often 3 feet long outdoors, and sometimes 6 feet under glass, and 

 when thoroughly ripened to its extremity bears the finest fruits. In C is represented 

 a fair example of a long-pruning shoot, with blossom and wood buds from near the 

 base to the extremity. It is the best type of a bearing shoot, as it can be laid-in its 

 full length, or cut back to any desired extent. It can hardly be cut-in wrongly either 

 for fruit or wood, as there is a wood bud with every blossom bud. 



D is a bearing shoot common on the weaker parts of a tree. It has only single 

 blossom buds (k), a wood bud at the extremity (&), and wood buds at the base (m). 

 A free thinning of such growths will generally induce bearing shoots with double and 

 triple buds, and these are much superior to the weaklings. Such shoots, as in E, 

 should be cut boldly away at the bar, to encourage the wood bud (0) to push a bearing 

 shoot. 



The object of pruning is not to increase but to modify vigour, balance the several 

 parts, accelerate and regulate the production of fruit, and maintain the health and 

 profitableness of the tree. There are different methods, and it is not necessary to 

 decry any, for experience proves that " which is best administered is best." Long- 

 pruning is not difficult to practise. Its extreme simplicity is portrayed in the instruc- 

 tions on " U " and fan training, therefore, it is only necessary to treat of a few points 

 that will be helpful to the uninitiated. 



Winter Pruning is best deferred till the trees against walls are swelling the buds, 

 say in February or March. Liberating the branches after the leaves have fallen, and 

 securing them in small bundles a few inches from the wall, is admitted to have a con- 

 siderable influence in retarding the opening of the blossom buds, and increases the 

 probability of a crop. Inexperienced persons will have no difficulty in recognising 

 the different buds, and time of pruning outdoor trees, from the illustrations, Fig. 22. 

 "Wood buds (F, G p, H r) are conical, pointed, scaled, and contain a growing point. 

 Blossom buds (JJ K, L) are ovate, become globose in swelling, and the scales enclose 

 the petals, stamens, and pistil of the flower, also the fruit in embryo, but they do not 



