86 THE FRUIT GROWERS GUIDE. 



its expansion is retarded and the atmosphere dry ; or, at least, it may be preserved by 

 covering the roof with blinds on frosty nights. If, perchance, the blossom should 

 become frozen, the sun must not shine upon it, but the glass should be covered, and 

 the trees syringed with cold water before the influence of the morning sun is felt, thereby 

 gradually raising the temperature, and possibly saving the crop of fruit. 



Training. In respect to systems of training it may be stated, as a rule, that the 

 finest fruit is borne on trees secured to trellises near the glass ; yet large crops of good 

 fruit are produced by trees in standard, bush, or pyramid form, either planted in the 

 borders or grown in pots. Potted trees are more under command than planted trees, but 

 they are far more exacting in feeding, and more expensive all round. A greater variety 

 and a longer succession of fruit can be had from them in a small house than is possible 

 with large trees planted in borders, and amateurs who have time, and desire to employ 

 it enjoy ably, may do so by growing peaches and nectarines in pots. The house can be 

 used in winter for other purposes, as the trees are better, after the growths are perfectly 

 ripened and the autumn top-dressing is given, for being placed in a sheltered situation 

 outdoors, with the pots plunged over the rims in ashes till the blossom buds commence 

 swelling in spring. Young trees, and those with unripe wood, are damaged in severe 

 winters. 



Bush Trees. If intended for pot culture, place a maiden tree in a 10- or 11-inch 

 pot in November ; shorten it in February to a good bud 1 foot from the soil. Select 

 seven of the best-placed and strongest shoots that push, and rub off the rest. Pinch the 

 laterals at the first and every subsequent joint, and if the shoots have not ceased to 

 elongate by the middle of August, pinch off their points. In the following February 

 select four of the most promising branches for bearing, evenly disposed around the stem, 

 and shorten them about one-third, leaving a dozen triple buds on each branch, but cut 

 down the other three shoots to the basal wood buds to give two shoots each for bearing 

 in the succeeding year, treating them in precisely the same way as those of the pre- 

 ceding season. The bearing branches will push shoots strongly near their extremities ; 

 one of these should be allowed to grow 12 inches and then be shortened to 9 inches, say, 

 early in June, pinching the laterals to one joint as made. Other shoots will spring from 

 the branches ; reserve two or three only on each as there may be space for development. 

 Those to form main branches should be about 1 foot aparjt, stopping them when they 

 have attained that length. Other growths will push from the bearing branches ; if they 

 bear a cluster of leaves on a short, stubby growth, they are spurs and must be left 



