9 o THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



to stop a shoot thereat, because growths will push by an excess of sap, and still 

 have buds at the base. A large leaf and one or two smaller at a joint, as in F, 

 is an excellent point for stopping, for there is a certainty of growth therefrom. No 

 shoot is of value for fruit production without a wood bud on a level with or above 

 the blossom buds. In a joint with a large leaf, stipules, and pushing lateral leaves, as 

 in W, there is danger of the lowest buds being at an undesirable distance from the 

 base, but by cutting off half the length of the leaves (d), and pinching the lateral above 

 the fourth leaf, the basal buds form " nearer home," while sub-laterals afford an outlet 

 for the sap, and prevent the lower buds starting into growth. Such lateral (B j) may 

 be left entire or be shortened to a wood bud (/), as space admits. 



If the growth is exuberant the leaf large and bud in its axil prominent, as in X, 

 it will push a lateral similar to Y. Such shoots are generally worthless in outdoor 

 culture if not under glass. M. Grin's principle is to transform them into usefulness 

 by shortening the leaves, directly they appear, half their length, and pinch off the grow- 

 ing point at the fourth leaf (Z)\ then by treating the sub-laterals similarly the vigour 

 is subdued and the blossom buds form. The procedure is portrayed in A, and the 

 only pruning required is to cut the latest sub-laterals off close to their base (C). The 

 following season fruit may be borne on the upper part, while successional bearing 

 shoots are produced from the two wood buds at the base, and after the fruit is 

 gathered the small-fruited branches are cut away to the successional bearing shoots. 



Cluster Growths. These are natural spurs short, stubby shoots terminated by a 

 wood bud in every case, and must not be shortened (Fig. 25, Z>, E, F, G, and J t u). 

 Cluster growths (so called) signify any growth stopped before it has naturally ceased 

 to elongate. This is called short-pruning, and the system is explained by the 

 illustrations. 



Short-pruning is an admirable system for trees under glass. There are several 

 modifications of it; the most desirable is the half-way method between long and short 

 pruning. This is quite as simple as and more profitable than the close-pruning plan, 

 and is advised for trees planted in borders. Short-pruning is no remedy for exuberance, 

 but pinching is useful in suppressing rampant growth, and equalising all the parts by 

 dispersing the sap, yet concentrating it where desired. All side shoots on the short- 

 pruning system are pinched at four leaves as soon as six full-sized leaves are developed, 

 not counting the small basal leaves. This practice may be modified, but it is better 

 to stop at five than shorten the shoot to three leaves. These leaves (numerals in II n, 



