PEARS TRAINING FOR ESPALIERS AND WALLS. 



'35 



than the lower, this giving a preponderance of wood, interfering with the productiveness 

 of the tree. To obviate this defect, when the leaders of the branches reach the semi- 

 circle they may be trained horizontally, as shown in Fig. 35, S, thereby concentrating 

 the vigour on the parts producing the finest fruit. 



Horizontal Training. This popular method is appropriate for espalier' or wall trees. An 

 espalier fence on which to train pear trees may be formed by straining wires horizontally 

 1 foot apart, on a framework 6 feet high. The tree is trained with an upright stem, 

 and six branches on each side. Supports for the trees are often formed of wood posts 

 and rails, or stout upright stakes. Horizontal training is extensively practised with 





^VrT%^y^ i X''^fe; 



Fig. 35. FAN TRAINING FOB ESPALIER AND WALL TREES. 



Seferences : Q, two-years-trained tree for espalier, showing pruning : a, leader ; b, side shoots ; c, unpruned side 

 growths ; d, shoots originated from leader ; e, growths from side branches ; /, continuation growths. R, three-years- 

 trained tree for wall, showing : g, leader ; h, last year's side shoots from the stem ; i, shoots from shortened side 

 branches ; j, continuation growths from unpruned branches ; Jc, branches forked at the radius ; I, shoots originated 

 from the leader at 3 feet from the lowest branches ; m, continuation growths of branches ; + , division of second 

 radius into feet. S, tree on 12-feet-high wall with the branches trained partly fan and partly horizontal. 



pear trees on walls, and is fully described on pages 15 19, and shown in Figs. 9 10, 

 Yol. II. When the walls are high, riders, planted midway between the permanent trees, 

 may be trained as circumstances admit. This utilises the space, but they must be cut 

 away when the other trees require the space. 



u Toasting -Fork " Trees. A three-branched tree has received this fanciful appellation. 

 It is formed by cutting a maiden tree to 1 foot from the ground, reserving three of the 

 growths that push, and rubbing off the rest. The central growth should be topped at 

 9 to 12 inches about midsummer, but not the two side growths, and of the shoots that 



