PINE APPLES CULTIVATIONPOTTING. 163 



temperature may gradually decrease to its minimum for the winter by the end of 

 November, namely, 55 at night and 60 by day artificially, with a rise of 10 to 15 

 from sun heat, effecting a change of air by ventilation above 65. The bottom heat 

 ought not to exceed 85 after the roots reach the sides of the pots, and during 

 October it must not be higher than from 75 to 80; after that time 70 to 75 

 is quite sufficient for the winter, as all that is wanted is to keep the roots healthy 

 during that period. From November to March (not inclusive) the atmosphere should 

 be dry rather than otherwise, and the pots will generally derive enough moisture 

 from the tan or other fermenting material for keeping the roots in a healthy state 

 during that period. 



The plan above described is that usually followed where the object is to secure 

 strong healthy plants for transferring to large pots in spring to make the best stocks 

 and fruit by the following autumn. But some growers shift the strongest plants into 

 their fruiting pots 9- or 10-inch for Queens, and 11-inch for others of stronger growth 

 as soon as the suckers have filled the pots with roots and before they have become 

 matted together, keeping them gently growing all the winter in light, well-heated 

 houses, with 5 to 10 higher temperature; also more moisture at the roots and in the 

 atmosphere than the other plants wintered in their first pots. Only the most forward 

 suckers are suitable for growing through the winter to be rested in. April and May 

 previous to their being started for winter fruit. 



Re-potting must not be done till the roots have formed round the sides of the pots 

 sufficiently to keep the ball of soil together. Such will be the condition of the Sep- 

 tember suckers at the end of February or the beginning of March, when they should be 

 placed in the fruiting pots. If the plants have become root-bound, the ball should be 

 partially broken with the hand, but they ought not to get into that condition. A 

 watchful eye should be kept on all young plants, shifting them in winter or summer 

 before they become hard-matted at the roots. The plants should be watered (if dry) 

 about a week before the potting, so that the soil may be moderately moist. If shifted 

 when the balls are difficult to moisten, the plants are liable to " bolt " start into 

 fruit prematurely. 



The pots must be perfectly clean inside and outside, and the drainage thorough. 

 Ordinarily 9- or 10-inch pots suffice for Queens, but a few of the largest plants in 8-inch 

 pots may be shifted into 11 -inch for the production of the finest fruit, whilst those in 

 7-inch may be placed in 10-inch and thosfe in 6-inch pots in 9-inch. Any plants in 



Y 2 



