84 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



spurs P r as shown, but the extension shoot P s will be of a more fruitful character, form- 

 ing some blossom buds and semi-spurs. That is the way to secure the most fruit, and is 

 the practice generally followed with wall and other trees. It is sometimes necessary to 

 shorten a vigorous extension shoot to originate growths at certain places for the proper 

 furnishing of the tree with branches and the profitable occupation of the space. If the 

 shoot n be shortened to about half its length 0, at the winter pruning, wood growth 

 will follow, as shown in Q, a strong shoot (tv] from the extremity, two subsidiary shoots 

 (v), of nearly equal vigour, while the growths (M) would have extended to about the length 

 shown by the outlines, had they been let grow instead of being pinched to form spurs. 



Such are the principles upon which pruning plum trees must be carried out. Prune 

 closely for the production of wood, or to multiply the growths and secure vigorous shoots 

 at the right place ; then shorten little or not at all, as in P s. Eepressiug vigour by 

 pinching is a useful aid to fruit production, but stopping strong shoots too closely causes 

 the basal buds to start, and the result is a quantity of soft useless spray. Instead of 

 this hard pinching to a certain number of leaves, it is better to omit counting the small 

 bract-like basal leaves R y, and pinch off the point of the shoot above the third good 

 leaf x. If the growth be only moderately vigorous, laterals may not push ; then there 

 will be a profusion of blossom buds formed in the axils of the leaves, but if vigorous 

 laterals issue from the uppermost buds, pinching them to one leaf z. Sub-laterals (a) 

 should be pinched to one leaf as made. At the winter pruning the shoot may be shortened 

 to firm wood immediately below the laterals c, thereby keeping the spur short. 



Disbudding must not be overlooked in plum trees. Strong young shoots often spring 

 from various parts of the tree. If not required for laying-in, these may be rubbed off when 

 quite small, while some of the less robust may be pinched. In the case of old trees it is 

 desirable to remove some of the older branches to make way for younger wood. The best 

 time to remove such as are weakly or undesirable growths is from June to September, 

 as the wounds heal quickly then and the sap is diverted into other channels before the 

 fall of the leaves. 



When a tree becomes enfeebled by any cause, it frequently pushes a number of 

 erratic growths, which accelerate the destruction of the weaker branches. To prevent this 

 it is necessary to cut out many weakly and some over-strong shoots. The safest plan is 

 to remove some of the weaker and rub off those likely to be over- vigorous while they are 

 small ; also the vigour of the young shoots retained may be subdued by the removal of 

 part of each leaf. This weakens the growth, while not hindering the formation of the 



