RASPBERRIES MULCHING AND WATERING. 21.5 



the raspberries. Deep hoeing, however, docs more h:irm than good by chopping off the 

 surface roots ; therefore, hoe early and lightly, not allowing the weeds to grow. Do not 

 chop off suckers, but pull them up or remove those springing from the rootstock with a 

 suckering iron or a chisel. Always reserve six or seven from a stool on established 

 plants the best in strength and position, and secure the growths loosely with matting to 

 prevent their being broken by strong winds ; also keep them clear of the fruiting canes. 

 Towards the end of August the soft tips of the summer shoots may be nipped off. This 

 strengthens the canes and plumps the buds, but it requires to be practised carefully or 

 the main buds will be started, and should always be several joints beyond the pruning 

 buds. Kemove the fruited canes when the crops are gathered. 



Mulching. In light shallow soils it is necessary to cover the ground between the 

 rows with short littery manure, not later than the appearance of the flowers, to secure 

 finely developed fruit. Eains wash the enriching salts into the soil and moisture is 

 conserved for the roots. In heavy soils a mulch of strawy manure is desirable to 

 prevent the soil cracking. The decay of these substances is valuable to raspberry 

 plantations, for humus in some form is essential to successful cultivation. Top-dressings 

 of leafsoil, and even grass mowings, are beneficial early in the summer. 



Watering. A few copious waterings in dry weather will accelerate growth in young 

 plants and sustain those carrying crops of fruit. During drought the plants and crops 

 are greatly improved by thorough soakings with liquid manure or sewage properly diluted. 

 To be of advantage they should be given in advance of the fruit swelling and discontinued 

 after the commencement of ripening. In ordinary seasons, watering is not necessary, 

 especially in deep rich soils. 



Winter Treatment. This usually commences by cutting out the old canes, as soon as 

 the leaves have fallen, thinning the new for next year's bearing, pruning and adjusting 

 to the stakes, or training in the most approved manner. After the rubbish is raked off, 

 the ground is ready for the winter dressing. This should consist of good stable or farm- 

 yard manure, spreading it evenly from 1 to 2 inches thick over the ground, or at 

 least as far from the stool as the roots extend. The debris of the rubbish heap, with 

 the woody portions charred, and a tenth part of quicklime incorporated, is equally 

 valuable as a top-dressing. The dressing may be lightly pointed in, taking care not to 

 disturb the surface roots. Weeds of a perennial nature must be forked out. Small annual 

 weeds may be buried in the spaces between the rows, where 3 or 4 inches' depth of soil 

 can often be turned over with advantage, for the winter's frost will mellow it, and the 



