236 THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



the leaves above the soil. That is as it should be, the roots in the soil no part of 

 the plant, not even its neck, buried, and with the space above named for holding water 

 in the pots. 



Situation. The site for the plants must be open to the sun and air, but sheltered 

 from winds, as the leaves are seriously injured when brushed to and fro against the pot 

 rims. A concrete or cement bottom is best, with some rough ashes or gravel to stand 

 the pots on. Ashes 6 to 9 inches thick form a good flooring for the plants. The pots 

 are often stood on garden paths, and worms are kept out of the pots by standing each 

 on a piece of slate. Gauze wire crocks are also used as worm excluders. Such positions 

 are suitable. The plants should stand just clear of each other, leaving space for watering. 

 As the plants increase in size, allow more space between them so that the leaves 

 do not overlap. The crowns should point to the south to get them stout and well 

 ripened. Plunging the pots is sometimes practised to save watering, and with the 

 plants 12 to 15 inches apart the foliage shields the pots sufficiently from the sun. Cut 

 off all runners as they appear, and remove weeds promptly. 



Watering and Feeding. Supply water carefully at first, just keeping the soil moist, 

 and on hot days sprinkle the plants in the evening. When they arc well established 

 in the pots copious supplies will be needed. Never allow the leaves to flag, yet do 

 not give water until the plants need it ; then a thorough supply. They should be 

 looked over in the morning, at mid-day, and late in the afternoon for watering. If in the 

 course of a month good crowns do not form, weak liquid manure may be given at 

 every alternate watering. Soot-water, a peck of soot to 60 gallons of water, using 

 the clear liquid, is excellent. Fresh horse-droppings rubbed through a p-inch sieve 

 and sprinkled on the soil in the pots encourage surface roots. 



Removing Side Crowns. One crown, a strong well-developed bud, is essential to 

 ensure fine fruits. As soon, therefore, as side buds become visible, remove them. The 

 early part of September is the proper time for the removal of side issues, continuing it 

 to October. Take care in removing the side buds from the axils of the leaves not 

 to injure the foliage or the central bud. This will then become more highly developed, 

 and push much stronger flower trusses than plants with many crowns can do when 

 placed in heat. 



Wintering. From the middle of October to November the earliest plants, which 

 should have been selected a month previously and given every advantage of place and 

 room to ripen their growths, must be plunged to the rims of the pots in pits or 



