5* THE FRUIT GROWER'S GUIDE. 



favoured localities, but it is imperative in cold districts to insure safety for the blossoms 

 and young fruit in the spring, as well as for the ripening of late fruits and the matura- 

 tion of the wood. The need for heating is much greater in small or narrow houses than 

 in large and wide ones, but a 4-inch hot-water pipe in front and at the back of a lean-to, 

 or both sides of a span-roof house, will suffice for widths of 12 to 18 feet, and 

 two rows of similar piping are ample for houses of 24 feet breadth. This command of 

 artificial heat is a great advantage in the spring, especially when the blossoms in an early 

 season may not be sufficiently protected by a glass roof should severe frosts occur. A 

 little warmth, moreover, assists the setting of the fruit and the swelling of the crop. 

 Artificial heat ought not, however, to be used for more than the exclusion of frost at 

 night, and a day temperature of 50 ought not to be exceeded by artificial means, with a 

 free circulation of air. An attempt at forcing a number of fruits in one house means the 

 failure of some, but absolute safety only from frost, cold, and damp, will ensure the success 

 of all. Abundance of heat is furnished by the sun in the summer ; it should be utilised 

 in cold districts by closing the ventilators somewhat early on fine afternoons after the 

 fruit is set, and fire heat ought only to be employed when it becomes really necessary, 

 and then a little air at the same time is desirable, except when severe frost prevails. 

 Artificial heat to the extent of excluding frost is advised for orchard houses in all but 

 the warm, parts of this country ; in the north or cold localities it is absolutely essential 

 for securing crops of fruit. Routine treatment has been given under the respective fruits, 

 but a few further hints applicable to trees in orchard houses will be useful to 

 beginners. 



Potting and Re-potting. The pots may range in size from 10 to 18 inches, according 

 to the age and size of the trees. The necessary compost should be prepared beforehand, 

 and allowed to remain several days or weeks after it has been well mixed. Two-thirds 

 rather tenacious loam, and one-third well-decomposed manure answers for all the fruits. 

 Some sifted brick and mortar rubbish or chalk may be added for stone fruits. A 9 -inch 

 potful of bone meal may be added to each barrowload of the compost ; if the loam be 

 turfy, use Thomas's phosphate instead of bone dust. The compost shouhl be placed under 

 cover to become workable that is, neither too wet nor too dry. Trees in a healthy con- 

 dition only need the removal of loose surface soil and a little from the sides of the ball with 

 a pointed stick, placing in fresh compost and ramming it firmly. This should be performed 

 in October. Trees that require a shift should be taken out of the pots, have the drainage 

 removed, the sides of the ball loosened, long roots shortened, and be placed in clean 



