324 FRUIT TUBES. 



deep of half-decayed stable manure or litter makes a 

 good mulching. It should be applied in May, and remain 

 all summer. After the fall dressing a mulching for the 

 winter will protect the roots and base of the tree from 

 injury; it should be so well decayed as not to attract 

 vermin. 



4th. Watering. In dry times, and especially in light, 

 dry soils, fruit trees will derive vast benefits from a liberal 

 syringing overhead in the evening, with a hand or garden 

 syringe (see Implements). A reservoir in the garden is 

 therefore desirable, and at a point easy of access from 

 all the quarters of the garden. This watering refreshes 

 the trees, drives away insects, mildew, etc., and washes off 

 dust and filth that may accumulate on the foliage and fill 

 up the pores. It is more necessary in city and village 

 than in country gardens. 



Protecting Trees against Extremes of Temperature. 

 Where the trunk or large branches are liable to injury 

 from sudden changes of temperature in the winter, or 

 from a powerful sun in summer, they may be covered 

 thinly, with long rye straw, fastened on with willows. 

 The trunk alone is more easily protected by means of 

 two boards nailed together, forming an angle for the tree. 

 This is placed on the south side, the injury being induced 

 chiefly by the sun at both seasons. 



Newly-transplanted trees, especially if they have tall 

 trunks, and are somewhat injured before planting, may be 

 saved by wrapping them lightly with straw ; a straw rope 

 rolled around answers the purpose. A little damp moss 

 is still better ; an occasional watering will keep it cool 

 and moist, and enable the sap to flow under the bark. 



Renovating pyramidal trees of Apples and Pears that 

 have become enfeebled or unproductive by age, bad soil, 

 bearing, or bad pruning. There are two methods of doing 

 this successfully. One is, to cut back all parts of the tree. 

 The stem may be cut back half its length, the lateral 



