CINERARIA. 



no 



CINERARIA. 



Then gradually harden them by giving 

 plenty of air, and place them in a 

 sheltered situation out of doors towards the 

 end of May. As the roots reach the sides 

 of the pots shift them into larger, giving 

 them their final shift in September. The ! 

 first flower stems should be cut out close to 

 the bottom when large plants are desired. 

 This will induce them to throw out from 

 six to twelve side-shoots ; these may be re- 

 duced, or all left, at the option of the 

 grower. Towards the end of September, 

 they should be returned to a cold pit, and 

 they will begin to flower in October. No 

 "soil is better for growing them than equal 

 parts rich loam, leaf-mould, and thoroughly 

 rotted sheep or horse-dung, liberally mixed 

 with sharp sand or charcoal dust, and used 

 in a roughish state. They also luxuriate 

 under the stimulating regimen of rich 

 manure-water. Another sowing may be 

 made in April, and a third in May, for 

 very late plants. 



Treatment of Old Plants. The treat- 

 ment of old plants may be similar to this. 

 Cut them down as soon as they are done 

 flowering. Shake them out and pot each 

 sucker separately in March ; then proceed 

 as above in every respect. 



Culture of Plants for Conservatory. In 

 August plants from seed sown in May 

 should be dwarf and compact specimens. 

 Select healthy plants from those potted off 

 in July, which will now be about 3 inches 

 high and well rooted ; and shift them into 

 5-inch pots, in a compost of good turfy 

 loam and well -decomposed cow-dung, 

 mixed with a little leaf-mould and silver 

 sand, to keep the soil open ; giving plenty 

 of good drainage, which is essential to the 

 health of these plants. When well-rooted 

 in the new pots, pinch out the leading 

 shoots. When they have made fresh 

 growth, look carefully over them again, 

 and pinch out all weak shoots, and such of 

 the old leaves as interfere with the free cir- 



culation of light and air round the stems, 

 and place them thinly near to the glass in 

 the front of the greenhouse, cold pit, or 

 frame ; in the latter case, raising the lights 

 on flower-pots to secure free ventilation. 

 When they have made considerable pro- 

 gress a second shift may be given, using the 

 same compost. In February give a final 

 shift, when a stonger compost should be 

 used, adding to the former a little well- 

 decomposed night-soil, or an increased 

 quantity of cow-dung, with a smaller 

 supply of leaf mould. Continue to thin 

 weak shoots and superfluous leaves in order 

 to throw the whole vigour of the growth 

 into the leading shoots. When strong 

 enough stake them and tie them out as 

 wide as possible. By this means the side- 

 shoots will soon fill up the intermediate 

 spaces. Fumigate frequently, to prevent 

 the green fly, which is the pest of this 

 plant. 



Application of Liquid Manure. When 

 the pot is pretty well filled with roots, 

 water with liquid manure, which will pre- 

 serve the leaves in a fresh green state, and 

 give additional brilliancy to the flowers. 



Plants from Seed for Spring. Seeds 

 sown in the beginning of August and 

 potted off into store pots when large 

 enough, make good plants for spring pur- 

 poses. Potting into store pots prepares 

 them for separate potting ; their after-treat- 

 ment being the same as above. The pro- 

 cess of stopping retards their bloom and 

 strengthens the flowers ; where earlier 

 bloom is required, therefore, a modified 

 treatment is to be adopted. When the 

 flowering season is over remove them to a 

 shaded place, preserving all the leaves, and 

 watering slightly, guarding them from 

 insects until August, when cuttings may be 

 taken from the old roots. When these are 

 separated from the plant the roots may also 

 be separated and potted out ; every particle 

 of the root being capable, under propel 



