GARDEN WALLS. 



208 GARDENING FOR CITIES. 



hammer-dressed on the external surface, 

 the mortar bed not too thick, and the 

 joints pointed and drawn clean. In stone 

 walls perhaps in brick walls also copper 

 or iron nails with eyes should be let into 

 the interstices of the wall, to tie down the 

 branches of the fruit-trees, taking care that 

 they are let in with the eye close to the wall ; 

 for the radiation of heat from the wall is 

 in proportion to its distance, and the heat 

 which is i a foot off the wall, is 144 when 

 in contact with it. The advantage of the 

 eyed nails consists in preserving the wall. 

 Thread dipped in pyroligneous acid, or 

 flexible wire, may be used for the purpose. 



The chief difficulty in the use of eyes 

 in a stone or brick wall arises when they 

 happen to. have been driven in at equal 

 intervals horizontally and vertically after 

 the wall is built and before the trees are in 

 situ or ready for training. It is better to 

 insert the eyes when engaged in training 

 trees, as then the eyes may be put in 

 exactly where they are wanted. It is 

 better to strain wires along walls, pulling 

 them as close to the surface as possible, 

 for the reasons given, then to tie down the 

 branches to eyes. 



Hollow walls are only found in gardens 

 of lofty pretensions, where very high culti- 

 vation is adopted ; and we have reason to 

 believe that in many quarters where they 

 exist they are rarely used. 



Besides brick and stone, chalk, clay, 

 and earth mixed with straw to make 

 it bind, have been sometimes employed 

 in erecting garden walls successfully. In 

 each instance the process is pretty nearly 

 the same. A foundation being obtained, 

 a wooden frame is prepared and laid down 

 on each side, of the exact thickness of the 

 intended walls. Into this frame chalk, of 

 clay, or earth mixed with straw, previously 

 worked into a thick paste, is thrown in 

 layers about 6 inches thick all round. 

 The layer thus placed is made level by 



raking, and rammed down hard with* a 

 rammer. . It is then left to settle and 

 consolidate before the next layer is put on. 

 In this way the work proceeds layer by 

 layer, until the intended height is attained, 

 when a coping of stone or other material 

 is bedded on it with cement or mortar. 



Gardener's Cottage. 



Almost every garden requires some 

 buildings, the construction of which may 

 serve to call into exercise the good taste of 

 its proprietor. When the grounds are of 

 sufficient extent, the gardener's cottage 

 should be contained within them, and the 

 proper situation of this will be as near as 

 possible to the hothouses and melon- 

 grounds. This cottage should be in keep- 

 ing with the mansion and its lodges. It 

 should be so arranged as to contain within 

 it the fruit-room, of which a description 

 has already been given under that title, 

 and a store-room for seeds. In this store- 

 room all seeds may be dried, cleaned and 

 put away. There should be a table in the 

 centre, and dressers round the room ; 

 drawers and nests should be provided for 

 the different seeds and bulbs. One or two 

 cross-beams in the roof will be very handy, 

 for, when provided with hooks, all pod 

 seeds can be hung up and dried ; onions 

 also, in ropes or bunches, can be suspended 

 from them. Sieves, bags, a quire of coarse 

 brown paper, and a ball of string, with a 

 packing needle, are essential requisites h) 

 such a store-room ; a small hand threshing- 

 machine and a small fanning or winnowing - 

 machine also will be found very con- 

 venient. 



Gardening for Smoky Cities 

 and Large Towns. 



It is well known to every one that the 

 vapour arising from substances in a state 

 of combustion, which is usually termed 

 smoke, is very prejudicial to vegetable 



