PINETUM. 



37i 



PINKS. 



form or another, and therefore are especi- 

 ally deserving of notice. 



Pinetum, Distance between 

 Trees in. 



The distance of pines from each other in 

 the pinetum must be determined by their 

 height (see Pinetum, Conifers for). For 

 permanent effect, none should be planted 

 nearer to each other than three times their 

 estimated height. This will afford breath- 

 ing room, and give facilities for seeing 

 them. If the ground can be thrown into 

 rough and uneven ridges, it will show them 



CEDRUS DEODARA. 



to most advantage. Nothing can well look 

 worse than the common practice of placing 

 each tree on the top of a little mound, 

 raised on level ground for that purpose. 

 The different classes should be planted in 

 groups, both for the sake of effect and to 

 suit their varying heights ; spruces, larches, 

 Scotch firs, junipers, cedars, , each having 

 their own compartment in the pinoUm. 

 As sometimes the whole of the ground is 

 not moved previous to planting, very large 

 holes will be necessary to secure the well- 

 being of the trees ; from 8 to 10 feet in 

 diameter, and from 3 to 4 feet deep, will 



the soil can be well trenched, mixed, and 

 returned into the hole two or three months 

 before planting, so much the better. 



Pinks (nat. ord. Caryophylla'cese). 



Pinks are closely allied to picotees and 

 carnations, and admit of very similar culti- 

 vation. New varieties may be obtained 

 from seed, and old plants may be increased 

 by pipings. 



Pipings, as the grass is called when it is 

 pulled out of the joint in the parent stem, 

 should be struck under a handglass, and 

 when well rooted should be planted in a 

 bed, in rows 6 inches apart, and 3 inches 

 between the plants : here they should re- 

 main till September, when they may be 

 planted in a bed or pots, in a compost, con- 

 sisting of two-thirds of loam from decayed 

 turf, and one-third well-decomposed cow 

 dung. If in pots, let them be 48*5, having 

 a few crocks in the bottom, and filled with 

 compost. Lift the plants carefully, with- 

 out breaking the fibres, adjusting the soil 

 so as to place the plant in its proper posi- 

 tion, spreading out the roots on the soil, 

 and filling up the pot to the surface. The 

 roots must not be sunk too deep, but the 

 soil on the top must be on a level with the 

 collar of the plant. When gently watered, 

 the pots may be placed in a common gar- 

 den frame, and the glass closed for four- 

 and-twenty hours. Throughout winter the 

 plants give very little trouble, seldom re- 

 quiring water, but all the air which can be 

 given them. In March they should be re- 

 potted in the pots in which they are to 

 bloom, which should be 24*3, with an inch 

 at least of crocks for drainage ; the soil as 

 before. 



The soil best suited to receive the young 

 plants is a mixture of good hazel loam, with 

 well-rotted manure from old cucumber or 

 melon frames. This mixture should be 

 made some months before it is required for 



not be too much for a Wellingtonia. If | use, and at the time of planting or potting 



