RESERVE GARDEN. 



420 



RESERVE GARDEN. 



that are intended to withstand the severity 

 of the weather. 



The following annuals are among the best 

 for this purpose : Calliopsis (or Coreopsis} 

 Drummondii) Calliopsis tinctoria, Clarkia 

 pulchella, Clarkia pulchella alba, Collinsia 

 'iicolor, Collinsia grandiflora, delphiniums 

 or larkspurs of different sorts and colours, 

 Bartonia aurea, Erysimum Perovskianum, 

 Eschscholtzia Californica^ Gilia capitata, 

 Gilia tricolor, all the annual varieties of 

 candytufts (Iberis), Leptosiphon androsa- 

 ceus, Leptosiphon densiflorus, white and pink 

 Virginian stocks, Limnanthes Dougktsii, all 

 the varieties of nemophila, dwarf schizan- 

 thus (Schizanthus pinnatus humilis), Schi- 

 zanthus porrigens, Schizanthus Priestii, 

 and the rock lychnis ( Viscaria oculata) y 

 will also stand through ordinary winters, 

 and be useful in furnishing the flower 

 garden in spring or early summer. 



Many of the spring-sown hardy annuals 

 would also be raised in the reserve garden, 

 although in most gardens where they are 

 extensively grown the majority of them are 

 sown either in patches or lines where they 

 are intended to flower. 



Half-hardy Annuals. The reserve gar- 

 den is also the proper nursing place for the 

 whole race of half-hardy annuals. Stocks, 

 asters, marigolds, clintonias, calandrinias, 

 lobelias, mesembryanthemums, portulacas, 

 cenotheras, the phloxes (including the 

 varieties of Phlox Drummondii), salpi- 

 glossis, maurandyas, tropaeolums, &c., 

 raised on a slight hotbed, must be gradually 

 hardened off, and planted in rich soil in a 

 warm corner, to be moved in due time to 

 sheir blooming quarters. 



Biennials and Perennials. Hardy bien- 

 rials, such as wall- flowers, Brompton 

 stocks, sweetwilliams, foxgloves, &c., c., 

 should also be sown here in May or June, 

 and receive their proper culture throughout 

 the summer. Any perennials, such as 

 hollyhocks, that are raised from seed, should 



likewise be sown in the reserve garden, and 

 treated the same as biennials. Cuttings of 

 any plants that will root in the open air 

 should also be inserted here ; and a corner 

 should be devoted to shrubs that are in- 

 tended to be increased by layering. Pro- 

 vision should also be made in this depart- 

 ment for affording temporary shelter, and 

 the means of gradually hardening off the 

 whole stock of bedding plants. Even in 

 small gardens, the north border or a por- 

 tion of it should be utilised as a reserve 

 garden. 



Cold Pits, Frames, <Srj. In places of 

 any extent, the reserve garden should be 

 furnished with ranges of cold and partially 

 heated pits and frames ; and beds of rich 

 soil, with raised edgings of brick, stone, or 

 wood, spanned over with hoops, to support 

 mats, canvas, reed coverings, &c. , in cold 

 weather. 



Beds for Bulbs , &c. In most gardens 

 there is a sad lack of means for gradually 

 transferring plants to the open air, and 

 several months of beauty in the flowei 

 garden are often lost in consequence. These 

 raised protected-at-pleasure beds will also 

 be the best possible positions for growing 

 the choicest sorts of tulips, hyacinths, 

 anemones, and other favourite flowers o* 

 early summer. It is certainly better tc 

 plant hardy bulbs, such as crocuses, snow- 

 drops, and the commoner tulip, say from 

 one foot to eighteen inches deep, and leave 

 them permanently in the flower beds or 

 borders, than to remove them out of the 

 way of the bedding plants annually. Those, 

 however, who object to this treatment will of 

 course provide space for them in the reserve 

 garden, and remove them thither when 

 they plant out regular bedding plants in 

 May. 



Surplus Stock. All surplus stock, to 

 fill blanks or repair accidents, should be 

 neatly plunged in pots, ready to be moved 

 when wanted. Others, that root more 



