ROSES, PLANTING OF. 



437 



ROSES, POMPON. 



are mentioned in the list of Hybrid Per- 

 petuals already given, which sec. Glory of 

 Cheshunt is a superb pillar-rose, its long 

 flexible shoots adapting it for training up 

 a column, or as a drooping standard rose. 

 Roses of this character, throwing out long 

 vigorous shoots of eight or ten feet in a 

 season, require little shortening in the 

 winter pruning : when cut in, they pro- 

 duce abundance of wood the following 

 season, and few flowers. If only tied up 

 to a wire, or trained on a pillar, they will 

 be full of bloom. Blairii No. 2 is of similar 

 habit ; General Jacqueminot and Vivid are 

 vigorous growers, and well adapted for 

 large standards or pillar roses. 



Roses, Planting of. 



At the proper time, having selected the 

 sorts of roses suited for the purpose, and 

 of one or two seasons' growth from budding, 

 and having cut off with a sharp knife all 

 damaged root fibres, we proceed to plant. 

 Good ordinary garden soil will produce the 

 rose large enough for ordinary purposes ; 

 but to grow it in perfection, unless a bed 

 has been previously prepared in the manner 

 directed above, a hole in the ground should 

 be opened 2 feet square and a foot deep. 

 This station should be filled with a com- 

 post consisting of two good sized spadefuls 

 of thoroughly rotted dung for each plant, 

 mixing it well with the soil. Upon the 

 soil thus prepared the standard rose is 

 placed, the collar just above the level of 

 the surface, and the fibres carefully spread 

 out over the soil. Fill in the remaining 

 soil and replace the turf, treading it gently 

 until it forms a small mound, out of the 

 centre of which the tree rises. A stake is 

 now driven into the ground, near enough 

 to support the stem, which is tied to it. 



Season for Planting. The season for 

 planting may be any time from the fall of 

 the leaf till the buds again begin to swell, 



in April or the beginning of May. Aftet 

 that there is danger of the tree dying off. 



Pruning. In pruning newly planted 

 roses, the object is to balance the head to 

 the vital powers of the fibrous root, which 

 has not yet thrown out its spongioles, and 

 to give a graceful form to the intended 

 head. If there be only one shoot from the 

 bud, cut it down to two eyes ; if there be 

 a regular head formed, cut away every 

 shoot down to the lowest eye that points 

 outward or downward, and cut away all 

 weak shoots or thin ones that come in the 

 way of a better, back to their base, leaving 

 only such as are required to form the head 

 of the tree. When the buds begin to break, 

 rub off all that grow inwards, all that would 

 cross other branches, all that are coming 

 weakly, and all that would crowd the head 

 and destroy its cup-like form. It is not a 

 good practice to prune roses immediately 

 after planting them. The tops should be 

 left on for a month or six weeks, and then 

 cut back or headed in to three or four buds 

 from the stock. This will insure a healthy, 

 vigorous growth. After the plants are 

 established, the shoots may vary in length 

 from 4 to 1 6 inches. The weaker the 

 growth, the closer should they be pruned, 

 and vice versa. 



As the growth proceeds, examine every 

 bud, every curled leaf and shoot, for insect 

 larvae ; for maggots, if not detected at once, 

 soon destroy the vitality of the flower bud. 

 Do this daily, syringing also with a fine 

 rose syringe, very forcibly applied, which 

 may destroy the green-fly, the thrip, and 

 other enemies. If they get established, 

 nothing but hand-picking, washing with 

 tobacco-juice, or smoking with tobacco 

 will get rid of them. 



Roses, Pompon. 



These beautiful little gems are admirab! * 

 adapted for bedding-out purposes, from 

 their singularly pleasing and distinct 



