SHOVEL. 



467 



SHOVEL. 



small rammer or the bottom of a pot of 

 about the same size, before the plant is 

 inserted. If the soil is of the proper 

 texture, and in a right condition in 

 reference to moisture, it will be almost 

 impossible to make it too firm in potting. 

 The roots of hard-wooded plants seem 

 unable to get hold of loose soil. Much 

 that is far from being to the point and 

 purpose has been written about stirring 

 and patching the surface 01 soil. When 

 plants are properly rooted this operation 

 is alike unnecessary and impossible. To 

 secure plenty of roots thorough drainage 

 is the first desideratum, proper compost 

 the second, firm potting the third, careful 

 watering the fourth, and proper top 

 management the very last point for con- 

 sideration. Keep the new soil level with 

 the top of the old ball. The collar should 

 not be raised above the general level, but 

 to depress it beneath is certain death to 

 hard-wooded plants. All plants, however 

 hardy, should be kept warm and moist 

 for a few weeks after re-potting, especially 

 if they have received, a large shift. The 

 growth of the roots is thus promoted a 

 point of great importance at this stage. 

 At first, before the roots have taken good 

 hold on the earth, the plant is easily 

 expelled by accident or disease ; but after 

 it has filled every available space with its 

 roots, it requires a violent wrench and the 

 application of much force to remove it. 



Shovel. 



This implement differs from the spade 

 in many important particulars. As a rule, 

 the blade is broader, has no. tread, and 

 the handle, which is long and slightly 

 bent, is inserted into a socket proceeding 

 from the top of the blade instead of being 

 attached to the blade by means of straps. 

 The shovel is not used for digging, but 

 for clearing trenches, &c., or for lifting 

 soil, gravel, manure, &c., that requires 



removal into a barrow or cart, though 

 manure from the heap can be handled 

 more readily by means of a fork. As the 

 blade is pointed, as shown at A and B, or, 

 at least, narrow at the edge, although 

 straight, as shown at c in the accompany- 

 ing illustration, which illustrates various 

 forms of shovels, it can be thrust into 

 masses of loose soil more easily than the 

 stiffer blade of the spade, because it en- 

 counters less resistance, and is thus more 

 capable of penetration. Being broader 

 than that of the spade the shovel blade 

 will receive and lift a greater quantity of 

 mould, &c., and as the handle is longer 

 the person who is using it has not to stoop 

 so much in thrusting the shovel into the 

 mould, &c., and can maintain his position 

 while throwing the material to be removed 



VARIOUS FORMS OF SHOVEL. 



into the cart. The length of the handle, 

 in fact, gives better leverage in lifting, 

 which is an essential in work of this kind. 

 The handle should be made of ash, and 

 should be perfectly smooth. 



Shovels that are used by navvies, miners, 

 coalheavers, &c., are different in construc- 

 tion to the garden shovel, and may always 

 be distinguished from it by their handles, 

 which are short, like that of the garden 

 spade, and terminate, with one or two 

 exceptions, in a crutched head. The blades 

 of shovels used for railway work and pit 

 work are mostly of the shape shown at A 

 and B, but they are secured to the handles 

 by straps and rivets, or the handles are let 

 into long cylindrical sockets, and riveted. 

 Shovels for handling ballast and coal have 



