JANUARY. 



JANUARY. 



Melons. The rules to be observed for 

 the culture of melons are precisely the same 

 as those for growing cucumbers. Ventila- 

 tion is necessary for growing plants of both 

 kinds, in order to prevent too great humid- 

 ity within the frame or pit, and consequent 

 injury to the plants ; but in allowing this 

 to escape, cold winds and draughts must 

 not be permitted to find their way in ; the 

 best way to prevent this is to stretch some 

 protecting material, such as tiffany, scrim 

 canvas, &c., over the opening. 



Melons, <5rV., Protection for. In cover- 

 ing the lights during frosts or rough winds, 

 it is advisable to avoid letting the mats or 

 other material used for protection hang 

 over the sides, as there is often danger of 

 conducting rank steam from the linings into 

 the frame. Straw hurdles which exactly 

 fit the lights are better than mats. The 

 covering should be used just sufficiently to 

 protect the plants from frost or cutting 

 winds, without keeping them dark and j 

 close. 



Mustard and Cress. This small salading j 

 is usually sown round the edges of carrots 

 or potatoes, or, indeed, in any such space 

 that offers ; but, where a succession is re- 

 quired, it is worth while to give it a frame 

 to itself. On a one-light bed 2 feet high 

 let the seed be sown, and, when that is up, 

 sow another light ; when the first is all cut, 

 pare off the soil containing the roots, re- 

 place it with new soil, and sow again, 

 either in drills or scattered evenly, but 

 thickly, over the surface and pressed into 

 the soil. 



Pits and Frames, Management of. Such 

 plants as pinks, carnations, picotees, auri- 

 culas, polyanthuses, &c., may be kept 

 through the winter in pits and frames with- 

 out any artificial heat. Calceolarias also 

 that is to say, herbaceous calceolarias re- 

 quired for bedding out need no artificial 

 heat. Frost must be kept out of the pits 

 or frames in which cinerarias, pelar- 



goniums, and verbenas are wintered by 

 putting a lining of long farmyard dung 

 against the sides and covering over the 

 glazed lights with mats. Air should be 

 admitted freely between 10 a.m. and l 

 p.m. when it is not freezing. All watering 

 should be done early in the day, and care 

 should be taken not to wet the leaves of 

 the plants when watering. 



Potatoes, Early, in Frame. When po- 

 tatoes are grown in a frame, the treatment 

 is much the same as before ; but some grow 

 them very successfully in this manner : 

 The frame being placed on a level piece of 

 ground, the soil within is dug out to the 

 depth of 2 feet, and banked round the out- 

 side of the frame.. The pit thus formed is 

 then filled with prepared dung ; on this 3 

 inches of soil is placed, then the potatoes, 

 then 6 inches more soil. The potatoes, 

 when planted, should be just starting into 

 growth, but the shoots should never be 

 more than half an inch from the tuber, or 

 they do not grow so strong. It is advis- 

 able to pick off some of the shoots ; three 

 on each tuber is sufficient. Leaves, tan, or 

 a small quantity of hot farmyard manure 

 will give sufficient heat for potatoes. 

 When the heat begins to come through, 

 place light soil to the depth of 12 or 14 

 inches on the heating material, and plant 

 the potatoes immediately. Give air when- 

 ever the weather permits, and take care 

 that the plants are not drawn up when 

 young, as this renders them weak and un- 

 healthy. Do not let the temperature of the 

 bed fall below 40. Beds prepared in the 

 same way will do well for radishes and 

 carrots, 



Potatoes, Early, in Melon Pit. For 

 growing very early potatoes, nothing is 

 more suitable than a broad, roomy melon 

 pit. The potatoes will be fit for use about 

 the time for planting out the melons. 

 About the beginning of January, let some 

 middling-sized tubers be laid in a warm 



