FEBRUARY. 



600 



FEBRUARY. 



the weight too suddenly or too greatly. 

 This precaution is necessary, because the 

 addition of IO inches of earth would cause 

 a rapid sinking and proportionate rise in 

 the temperature of the dung, to the injury 

 of the roots. Four days after planting, 

 sufficient earth is put on to cover the 

 crowns about 6 inches. In ten days the 

 crowns begin to appear. 



Asparagus Forcing. When the crowns 

 appear, the settling of the dung has brought 

 the surface of the soil 18 inches from the 

 glass. Nothing more is required to be 

 done than to cover them from frosts and 

 give them an occasional watering, with a 

 little salt in the water. This bed will 

 continue to produce largely till the time 

 asparagus is plentiful out of doors. Aspa- 

 ragus may be forced any time during the 

 winter ; but to have it earlier than Feb- 

 ruary a frame and dung bed is better than 

 a melon pit, since the necessary heat must 

 be maintained by means of outside linings. 

 In other respects the treatment is much 

 the same. 



Beans, French. These may still be 

 sown as described last month, or they may 

 be placed in an old hotbed fresh lined. 

 As the season advances, they will require 

 less heat, but will not do out of doors yet. 



Beds, Seedling. Cauliflower, lettuce, 

 cabbage, broccoli, radish, carrot, onions, 

 beet, c., may now be sown in the cold 

 pit or frame ; they will not come on so 

 quickly as those sown in heat, but will be 

 earlier than those sown outdoors. It is 

 not well to begin too early with seeds of 

 this kind, unless an abundance of manure 

 is at hand, for the earlier the beginning, 

 the more dung to maintain the heat will be 

 required. 



Carrots, Early. These may be sown, 

 for succession, on a slight hotbed, and very 

 dwarf peas also, which may be treated in 

 the same way as French beans, mustard 

 cress, and lettuces, for succession. 



Cauliflower s t Lettuces, &c. Cauli- 

 flowers, corn salad, parsley, endive, 

 lettuces, &c., in cold frames, should 

 have the earth stirred between them 

 occasionally ; they should have every 

 ray of sunshine, and be uncovered en- 

 tirely in mild weather. Pick out dead 

 leaves, and water if needful, but beware 

 of over-wetting. 



Cucumbers. Cucumbers in full growth 

 require every attention. See that the heat 

 of the beds does not fall below 70 ; apply 

 fresh linings as soon as this is the case. 

 Attend to stopping and setting ; allow no 

 more than two or three cucumbers to grow 

 at the same time on one plant ; admit air 

 in sunny weather, but not enough to pro- 

 duce a draught ; give all the light possible, 

 but cover at night with mats or straw, and 

 add fresh earth if required. 



Cucumbers, Planting. If it is desired to 

 start more beds, the dung may be got ready 

 and treated as formerly described, during 

 which time the seed may be sown in pots 

 and placed in a bed in full operation ; or 

 those who have not yet begun may proceed 

 as described last month. Good loamy soil 

 is best to grow them in, so that it is warm 

 enough before planting. Place two plants 

 on a mound under each light ; as they 

 grow, add fresh soil till the bed is level. 

 Peg the bines down as they grow. If a 

 proper temperature and sweet dewy atmos- 

 phere pervade the frame, they will never 

 be troubled with insects or mildew ; but 

 if they are chilled or over-heated these will 

 soon follow. If mildew attack them, 

 sprinkle with water and dust with sulphur ; 

 if green fly or thrips, fumigate with 

 tobacco. 



Cucumbers, Ridge, Marrows, &*e. Now 

 is the time for making a hotbed for sow- 

 ing ridge cucumbers, vegetable marrows, 

 tomatoes, capsicums, and such plants. 

 Those who have hotbeds in operation 

 may sow these seeds in pots, and put them 



