MARCH. 



613 



MARCH. 



for seed or suckers, and sow seed at once 

 for the earliest plants. 



Climbing Plants. These must be neatly 

 tied in as they grow, and nicely trained to 

 suit the position in which they are placed. 



Fuchsias. These must be shifted now, 

 and stopped and got into shape, as neces- 

 sity may require and direct. 



Heaths. The preceding remarks on 

 potting are applicable to heaths as well 

 as to other free-growing, hard-wooded 

 plants. The potting of all the specimens 

 in the house should now be proceeded with 

 in accordance with the instructions given. 



Pelargoniums. These, whether show, 

 fancy, or zonal, will now require careful 

 training. Remove every dead leaf, thin 

 out superfluous shoots, and keep the plants 

 scrupulously clean. Maintain a tempera- 

 ture of 50 to 55 ; syringe on fine, bright 

 mornings. If the weather is fine towards 

 the end of the month, sprinkling may be 

 repeated in the afternoon, and the house 

 shut up about four o'clock. Keep the 

 plants close to the glass, and admit air in 

 quantity proportioned to the mildness of 

 the external air. Tie into shape, stop and 

 shift plants for the latest bloom, and put 

 in the toppings for cuttings. Fancy 

 pelargoniums require the same general 

 treatment, but even more care in ventila- 

 tion and watering. Scarlet and variegated 

 geraniums require shifting, training, and 

 stopping. 



Shifting Plants. Proceed with the shift- 

 ing of all plants requiring it. Free-grow- 

 ing plants, such as leschenauitias, boronias, 

 &c., may be treated on what is termed the 

 one-shift system, provided they are very 

 healthy and the after treatment is skilful. 

 They require turfy peat, well coloured 

 with gritty silver sand, and a fourth part 

 of clean leaf mould. Much of the dirty 

 putrid water and tannin that is used under 

 this designation is enough to kill most 

 plants, and is certain death to hard-wooded 



species. Therefore, unless the leaf mould 

 is really good, add none to your compost 

 for hard -wooded plants. 



Temperature. The temperature of the 

 greenhouse during March may range from 

 45 to 50. In fine, open, sunny weather 

 air may be freely admitted ; but it is better 

 to let the temperature of the house run up 

 even to 65 or 70 under the influence of 

 the sun's rays than to run the risk of chill- 

 ing the plants by letting a rush of air too 

 cold for them into the house, with the view 

 of lowering the temperature. In March, 

 as well in April and even May, a hot sun 

 with a cold wind too often prevails. 



Want of Shade. When plants appear 

 to wilt, as the Americans have it, or, in 

 other words, to droop, the drooping is 

 caused rather through want of shade than 

 want of water. Over-much watering is 

 good for no plants, except sub-aquatic 

 plants. Hard-wooded plants, such as 

 heaths, camellias, azaleas, &c., require 

 more watering when they are growing 

 than when they are flowering. A too 

 copious supply of water when about to 

 flower, or when flowering, often makes 

 the camellia cast its buds. Soft-wooded 

 plants, such as fuchsias, geraniums, &c., 

 grow and bloom at one and the same 

 time. 



Watering. The plants will begin to 

 look out for more water now, as the sun 

 gains power, and a moist and genial 

 atmosphere should be maintained by 

 sprinkling the path, &c., with water, rather 

 than by watering the plants themselves too 

 much, and, worst than all, letting water 

 fall on the leaves. 



March. Hotbeds, Frames, &c., 

 Work in. 



Annuals ', Half-hardy. If the frame has 

 been prepared as recommended last month, 

 lose no time in sowing half-hardy annuals. 

 A second sowing may be made next 



