JUNE. 



658 



JUNE. 



Plants which have been kept back for 

 autumn supply should now be induced to 

 fruit, backward plants being dry for that 

 purpose, and exposed to the light. When 

 the fruit appears, shift plants requiring 

 more pot room, and place them where they 

 are to ripen. The most suitable sorts for 

 autumn and winter use are the two varieties 

 of Cayenne, Black Jamaica, and Queens. 



Pines ', Succession, Treatment of. Suc- 

 cession pines should, at the end of the 

 month, be growing very fast, and require 

 air in liberal quantities, both back and 

 front. Water as they require it, using 

 liquid manure occasionally, clarified, to 

 prevent its choking up the drainage pro- 

 perties of the soil. Maintain a steady 

 bottom heat, and pot the suckers of the 

 plants from which the fruit is cut. As the 

 stools are removed to make way for other 

 plants, all succession plants requiring re- 

 potting should new be shifted. When 

 replunged, leave plenty of room for the 

 foliage to spread out, and place them near 

 the glass, watering with weak manure 

 water once a week or fortnight, according 

 to their requirements. 



Pines, Ventilation for. Give air early, 

 increasing it as the day advances, and close 

 early in the afternoon, at which time the 

 plants, beds, and interior walls should be 

 damped over. When the nights become 

 warmer, a little air may again be put on, 

 which will assist the colouring of the fruit. 

 To insure strong, sturdy plants, maintain 

 a uniform bottom heat of 90 during the 

 season of active growth. The frosty nights 

 which occasionally occur, and cloudy or 

 rainy days, require that this temperature 

 should be kept up by fire heat. 



Vines, Artificial Heat for. Although 

 the nights are now getting warm, it will 

 still be necessary to apply artificial heat, 

 both in houses ripening and in later crops 

 now in bloom, especially where Muscats 

 and ctther shy setters are grown, as they 



rarely form perfectly shaped bunches with- 

 out a warm and dry atmosphere, which in 

 our climate requires fire heat. In thinning 

 the later crop of grapes, lay out the bunches 

 well, and leave the berries thinner than the 

 early ones ; the grapes will keep all the 

 better from not being too thickly set in the 

 bunch. 



Vines for Late Crops. Where vines have 

 been retarded for late grapes, by being 

 turned out, they should now be brought 

 into the house and trained to the trellis or 

 rafters, and invigorated by syringing, to 

 encourage the growth of young wood. 



Vines, Foliage. Supposing a crop of 

 grapes to have been gathered from early- 

 started vines, it is still very important to 

 keep the foliage in a green and healthy 

 state for the next two or three months, 

 when they shed them. This should be so 

 done, however, as to prevent a second 

 growth taking place ; the borders should 

 be gently watered, the red spider kept 

 down by using the syringe, and air given 

 on every possible occasion ; the leaves may 

 thus be kept in a healthy state, highly use- 

 ful to the vine while it ripens its wood. By 

 this means vines endure early forcing for 

 many years without much diminution of 

 their energy. 



Vines in Pots. Vines training in pots 

 for next season's fruiting require daily 

 attention and stopping ; when they have 

 attained a proper length required for 

 fruiting, stop the laterals and expose the 

 principal leaves to the light. Water with 

 liquid manure when the pots are full of 

 roots. 



Vines, Keeping Grapes. When grapea 

 require to be kept for some considerable 

 time, they must be shaded during bright 

 weather, otherwise the fruit will become 

 shrivelled. If the shoots have been stopped 

 at one or two joints above the fruit, the 

 laterals (which should be taken clean out 

 up to the bunch), should be stopped back 



