AUGUST. 



683 



AUGUST. 



be touched until the leaves fall. While the 

 vines are thus exposed, the sashes, rafters, 

 &c., should be put into a state of repair, 

 and painted, that everything may be in 

 good order when the time for forcing again 

 arrives. If the sashes are not wanted for 

 repairing, they may be used for a variety of 

 purposes, such as ripening grapes, peaches, 

 &c., against walls, forwarding tomatoes, or 

 to assist in the propagation of bedding stuff. 



Vines in Pots. Vines in pots, intended 

 to fruit next season, must be closely watched 

 to get the wood perfectly ripened. As they 

 have now completed their growth, liquid 

 manure may be given pretty freely to swell 

 out the buds to carry next season's crop. 

 The plants must be kept close to the glass, 

 and thus exposed to the full influence of 

 light ; great care should be taken of the 

 principal leaves as the wood assumes a 

 brown hue. Lessen the water by degrees, 

 and allow (if practicable) a lower night 

 temperature. 



Vines, Stopping Young. Young vines, 

 planted during the past or present season, 

 should be stopped when once they reach 

 the top of the house. Where the rods, 

 however, are intended to carry fruit next 

 season, and the vines are growing freely, 

 six or eight joints beyond where it is in- 

 tended to cut them back should be left, as 

 a too close stopping might cause the prin- 

 cipal eyes to break, and endanger next 

 season's show of fruit. Lateral shoots, after 

 this, may be kept stopped back pretty close, 

 as the object will now be more to ripen the 

 existing wood than to encourage fresh 

 growth. Besides looking over ripe grapes 

 to remove decayed berries and stopping the 

 lateral shoots as they are formed, there are 

 not many instructions to be given for the 

 vinery this month. 



August. Hothouse and Green- 

 house, Work in. 



Ackimenes. These, as they go out of 



bloom, may be placed in a frame to ripen 

 their tubers, exposing them fully to the sun, 

 but keeping them rather dry. 



Amaryllis. Amaryllids which have 

 perfected their growth may be placed in a 

 dry place to winter. A good example of the 

 Amaryllids is found hi the Scarborough 

 Lily (Amaryllis vallota purpurea). There 

 is one section of this tribe, however, with 

 elongated bulbs, which will not bear to be 

 kept entirely without water, even when in 

 a state of rest. These latter, with Pan- 

 cratium speciosum and P. fragrant^ &c., 

 should be placed on the back shelves of a 

 vinery, or any house of medium tempera- 

 ture, supplying them only with water 

 sufficient to keep their foliage from dying 

 off, 



Ataleas. Late-flowering azealeas now 

 require shifting and training, so that the 

 foliage draws out properly before winter. 

 On the slightest indication of thrips, fumi- 

 gate. 



Brugmansias. Brugmansias, and other 

 gross-feeding plants, may be liberally sup- 

 plied with liquid manure to maintain them 

 in vigorous health, and at the same time to 

 prolong the period of their blooming. 



Camellias, S*c. These also require shift- 

 ing, if not done last month. When they 

 have rooted in the new soil, give them 

 plenty of air day and night, and syringe 

 freely three or four times a week in fine 

 weather. Daphne Indica, both red and 

 white, as well as Magnolia fuscata, are 

 very suitable companions to the camellia, 

 requiring exactly similar treatment and 

 temperature. 



Chrysanthemums. Complete the potting 

 of chrysanthemums, and plunge them in 

 ashes or sawdust to save watering. Stake 

 neatly, and stop mildew wherever it 

 appears, by dusting a little flour of 

 sulphur over the infected leaves. Water 

 with liquid manure freely. 



Cinfrarias, &c. Pot off seedling cine- 



