The Savoury Pilchard 299 



dealt with. By this means the fish are kept from 

 spoiling. 



Apart from those that are consumed locally, there 

 is not much British trade in the Pilchard. It is too 

 rich for most tastes. So it is salted and packed in 

 hogsheads for the Continental market, whither it is 

 sent after a period of pressure upon the fish in the big 

 casks for the purpose of expressing as much of the 

 oil as possible. 



But for some obscure reason, of which I know 

 nothing, it seems impossible to spread the sale of 

 this rich and tasteful little fish farther than its present 

 somewhat restricted distribution. Many attempts 

 have been made to do so, serious and well-managed 

 efforts which deserved success at any rate. Lightly 

 cured and of a bright golden colour. Pilchards in bundles 

 were for some time to be seen on almost every fish- 

 monger's show-boards in poor neighbourhoods. They 

 were not only appetising in appearance, but of really 

 delicious flavour, besides being as cheap as the London 

 workman insists upon having his food, that is to say, 

 cheaper than food can be bought of the same kind and 

 quality in any other city in the world. 



But I am afraid that they came into competition 

 with the herring too severely, and so brought down 

 upon themselves, or rather their owners, the enmity 

 of the great herring factors, for I have noticed that 

 for some time past they have hardly been procurable. 

 Or perhaps the people for whose benefit they were 

 intended would not encourage their sale. The poorest 

 classes, of London especially, those that is who work 

 and support themselves, are tremendously conservative, 

 clinging tenaciously to old ways, old styles of food, in 

 a wonderful manner. But if by perseverance some 

 new food is at last brought into their favour its success 



