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LEGUMINOS/E. CLXXI. PISUM. 



all very fine eating peas in a young growth, and like the marrow- 

 fed may bo sown freely according to the demand, from the third 

 week of February to the close of April, and in smaller crops, 

 until the middle of June. For late crops, in addition to the 

 i-;.rly sorts already mentioned, the dn~arf sit gar, Leadman's 

 dwarf, Bishop's dwarf, and Spanish dwarf are very suitable. 

 The Leadman's as well as Bishop's dn-arf, are small, delicious 

 IK. is, great bearers, and in high request at genteel tables, but 

 as the fruit of Leadman's divarf is long of coming in, it is not 

 adviseable to sow it after the third week in June ; rather sow 

 it in March, April, and Way, and then it will be later than the 

 Char lions raised five weeks afterwards. The Charllons and 

 Hotsj.urs may be sown in May, for late full crops, in June for 

 a smaller supply, and in July, along with the frame, for the last 

 returns. 



Times of sowing. Much that relates to this has been inci- 

 dentally mentioned in the estimate of sorts. To try for a crop 

 as early as possible, sow of the sort preferred as hardy and for- 

 ward, a small portion on a sheltered south border, or other 

 favourable situation, at the close of October, or rather in the 

 course of November. Follow with another sowing in Decem- 

 ber, that if the former should be casually cut off in winter, this, 

 coming up later, may have a better chance to stand ; and if both 

 survive the frost, they will succeed each other in fruit in May 

 and June. For more considerable and less uncertain returns, 

 either in succession to the above, or as first early and interme- 

 diate crops, sow larger portions in December or January, if 

 open temperate weather. To provide for main crops, make suc- 

 cessive sowings of the suitable sorts from February till the end 

 of May. It frequently proves that the fruit from a sowing at 

 the beginning of February is not a week later than that from a 

 crop sown in November ; nay, the February-sown crop some- 

 times surpasses all that have stood the winter, in forward returns 

 as well as quantity. From the middle of February, make suc- 

 cessive sowings every three weeks in the course of March, April, 

 and May, or twice a month in summer, when a continued succes- 

 sion is to be provided till the latest period. At the close of the 

 sowing season, July and the first week of August, sow a reduced 

 quantity each time, because the returns will depend on a fine 

 mild autumn following, and whatever fruit is obtained will be 

 small and scanty. 



Quantity of seed. Of the small early kinds, one pint will 

 sow a row of 20 yards ; for the larger sorts for main crops, the 

 same measure will sow a row of 33 yards. 



Process of sowing. For early sorts make the drills 1-| inch 

 deep ; and let parallel drills be 2-J or 3 or 4 feet asunder. Peas 

 that are to grow without sticks require the least room. For 

 summer crops and large sorts, make the drills 2 inches deep arid 

 4. 5, or 6 feet asunder. As to the distances along the drill, dis- 

 tribute the peas according to their size and the season ; the 

 frame 3 in the space of an inch ; the Charltons, Hotspur, and 

 dwarf marrowfat, 2 in an inch ; the Prussian-blue and the 

 middle-sized sorts 3 to 2 inches ; the large marrowfats and 

 Knight's a full inch apart ; the moratlo, rouncivals, and most 

 larger sorts 1-j inch apart ; and the Patagonian 2 inches. 



Soil and situation. The soil should be moderately rich, and 

 deeper and stronger for the lofty growers. Peas are not assisted 

 but hint by unreduced dung, recently turned in. A fresh sandy 

 loam or road-stuff, and a little decomposed vegetable matter, is 

 the best manure. The soil for early crops should be very dry, 

 and rendered so where the ground is moist, by mixing sand 

 with the earth of the drills. For early crops, put in from Oc- 

 tober till the end of January, let the situation be sheltered, and 

 the aspect sunny. Before the end of December, every one or 

 two rows should stand close under a south or south-eastern fence. 

 In January, several parallel rows may be extended, under a 

 good aspect, further from the fence. After January till the end 



of May, sow in an open situation. For the late crops, return 

 again to a sheltered sunn}' border. 



Subsequent culture. As the plants rise from half an inch 

 high to 2 or 3 inches, begin to draw earth to the stems, doing 

 this when the ground is in a dry state, and earthing gradually 

 higher as the stems ascend. At the same time with the hoe 

 loosen the ground between the young plants, and cut down 

 rising weeds. Early crops should be protected during hard 

 frosts by dry straw or other light litter, laid upon sticks or 

 brushwood, but remove this covering as soon as the weather 

 turns mild. If in April, May, and the course of summer, con- 

 tinued dry weather occurs, watering will be necessary, especially 

 to plants in blossom and swelling the fruit, and this trouble will 

 be repaid in the produce. Rows partly cut off may be made 

 up by transplanting. This is best done in March. In dry 

 weather water, and in hot days shade until the plants strike. 

 All peas fruit better for sticking, and continue longer produc- 

 tive, especially the larger sorts. Stick the plants when from 6 to 

 12 inches high, as soon as they begin to vine. Provide branching 

 sticks, of such a height as the sort will require ; for the Frame 

 and Lcadmans dwarf 3 feet high ; for the Charltons and middle- 

 sized sorts 4 or 5 feet ; for the marrowfat and larger kinds G or 

 8 feet ; for the rouncivals and Knight's marrow-pea 9 or 10 feet. 

 Place a row of sticks to each line of the plants on the sunny 

 side, that the attraction of the sun may incline the plants towards 

 the sticks. Place about half the number on the opposite side, and 

 let both rows stand rather wider at top than at the ground. 

 Some gardeners stop the leading shoots of the most early crop 

 when in blossom, a device which accelerates the setting and 

 maturing of the fruit. Abercrombie. 



Rotation of crops of garden peas. In January sow on an 

 early border or other warm situation, if the weather be open 

 and the ground sufficiently dry. The true-earl //-frame, nim- 

 ble-tail: r, and Charlton are the best for this sowing. In Febru- 

 ary a full crop of Charltons may be sown about the beginning of 

 the month, and of marrowfats and other larger sorts towards 

 the end in the open quarters of a garden. It frequently hap- 

 pens that the fruit of 'a sowing made the beginning of this month 

 is not a week later than that of a crop sown in November, and 

 often surpasses all that have stood the winter, both in forward 

 returns, as well as quantity. From the middle of this month 

 make successive sowings every three weeks during the months 

 qf March and April, and twice in each of the months of June, 

 July, and August, reducing the quantity each time from the end 

 of June till the middle of August. In February sow peas of 

 the early sorts in pots and flat boxes, and place them in a hot- 

 house, and if for extensive crops sow on a light hot-bed. This 

 has been practised by Mr. Bishop, an experienced gardener, 

 and is the most rational plan of transplanting peas ever prac- 

 tised. In March sow peas as before directed, and transplant 

 those that were sown in boxes or pots, or on hot-beds last month. 

 In October, peas for the early crop next season may be sown, 

 about the end of the month, in a warm south border, fully ex- 

 posed to the sun. For this sowing the early-frame, Charlton, 

 nimble-tailor, and Hotspur are the best sorts. If the ground 

 is cold and wet, it is best to draw the mould up in ridges 2 feet 

 high, both this and the three following months. In November 

 and December sow the same kind of peas as are recommended for 

 last month. 



To forward an early crop, " sow or plant in lines from east 

 to west, and stick a row of spruce-fir branches along the north 

 side of every row, and sloping so as to bend over the plants, at 

 1 foot or 18 inches from the ground. As the plants advance 

 in height, vary the position of the branches, so as they may 

 always protect them from perpendicular colds or rain, and yet 

 leave them open to the full influence of the winter and spring 

 sun. Some cover during nights and in severe weather, with two 



