132 STRA Y FEA THERS FROM MANY BIRDS. 



Ortolan, a species of Bunting, rare in this country, but 

 common enough in all parts of Central and Southern 

 Europe. It also is a migratory bird, coming from 

 Africa every spring, and returning in the autumn. Its 

 song is simple yet pleasing, something similar to that of 

 the well-known Yellow Bunting, which may be seen in 

 almost every English field. The Ortolan as an entree 

 dish has been introduced from the Continent. Hence, 

 of the vast numbers that are caught in spring and 

 autumn, a large proportion find their way to the English 

 table-d *hote. Many of the little songsters are brought 

 here alive like Quails, and regularly fattened up for the 

 table. Fed on hemp seed they soon become plump and 

 fat, and find a ready sale in all our bird markets. 

 Holland and Belgium contribute the greater part of 

 these " fat Ortolans " to the English market. The birds 

 migrate in flocks in autumn, and they are generally 

 caught in nets by the men who fatten them. The poor 

 little birds are kept in darkened cages and allowed little 

 exercise, so that they may fatten quickly. 



It should here be remarked, however, that too often 

 the birds mentioned in the menu as " Ortolans " or 

 " Larks " are not those birds at all, but Sparrows ; yes, in 

 many cases pert little London Sparrows, that are netted 

 at night amongst ivy, and in hayricks where they roost. 

 Birds not quite so toothsome perhaps are also frequently 

 passed off on the unsuspecting diner-out ; for the Lark- 



