ON THE COAST OF AEEAN 117 



that of a piece of waxwork, glares at me, and 

 then drops back again, the horror of the situ- 

 ation is increased. Just before daylight a dark- 

 looking creature gnome, familiar spirit, or 

 demon comes in, and after creeping stealthily 

 round I wonder apprehensively what it is that 

 he would be at blows out the oil lamp which 

 swings in the centre. After this the smell is 

 intolerable ; and, rolling my grave-clothes in a 

 heap, and taking all my earthly habiliments in 

 my hands, I clear away and dress outside on 

 the cabin stairs. It is a happy deliverance ! 

 Nature's second course has been no nourisher 

 to me. But now the fresh breeze on deck does 

 what sleep has left undone, and as we speed 

 along the morning brightens. 



Yonder is the Welsh coast, clearly seen, from 

 Penmaenmawr to the wide mouth of the Dee. 



About noon we pass out of sunlight into 

 smoke, and know that we are close upon Liver- 

 pool. 



