ON THE COAST OF ARRAN 119 



I have arranged with the steward to make up 

 my berth on deck, under the covered passage at 

 the head of the cabin stairs. And now that the 

 last of the passengers has disappeared I am 

 alone with the captain, the ' look-out,' and the 

 man in the wheel-house. Leaning over the 

 bulwark, I watch the wavering horizon and 

 listen to the sound, like thunder, which the 

 vessel makes in cleaving the water. There is 

 no other noise except that of the wind, which 

 has now risen to a gale. Sometimes there is a 

 dash of rain, and then it becomes suddenly 

 clear and starry. When we pass the Portpatrick 

 Light, which is off Stranraer and opposite Bel- 

 fast Lough, it is between twelve and one, and I 

 think it time to turn in. 



Out again at four o'clock in the morning. 

 The stars are still bright ; but the dawn is 

 breaking. Large confused clouds almost cover 

 the sky ; but behind them we see that the sky 

 is clear. Then, though the sun is invisible, the 



