At^tUATlCS 



nine of soil is sufiiciont. Choniical manures, ground 

 bone, horn shavings, ett',, should not lie used unless in 

 extreme cases, and then very cautiously. 



Depth of Water.— In natural ponds, water-lilies are 

 found growing in water from a few inches to 4 and 6 

 feet deep, hut in artifacial ponds a depth of 12 to 18 inches 

 will be found sufficient for most Nj niphfe is and 18 to 24 

 inches is a good depth fc 1 \ K ton IS In c i.nstnK tiii^ in 

 artificial pond, a dc] th ot J t > _' li i t is uni h \\ iti i 

 to the depth of 12 in. Ii. s il, .m tin ( lowiis ,,t tin jil mis 

 is sufficient, and a boM out iiiun,., tht smlmu bt IJimhts 

 deep. Thus a pond 2 feet in dci)th is deep eium^h and 

 will allow a man, with hip boots on to walk between the 

 plants with ease. For a small pond less than 12 feet 

 over, a plank laid acioss will suffice for all operations 



Protection.— Where severe frosts are pievalent in 

 winter, and ice 12 to 18 inches m thickness is found 

 there will be danger of the roots f n r /in... In sui h cises 

 an additional depth of C mr h. s will b( i ^ri it id\ lutv 

 and a protection of brai 1 i ii iilt b n .,imii niiiuin 

 leaves, or any other non conduc tm^ in iti ii ds sbduld be 

 used to protect the niasonrj , m se% ere weather against 

 expansion and breakage 



Planting. — All hardj \>nnphaeas n\i\ be plmted an\ 

 time between the 1st ( f \|iiil iiid tin 1st of Si ))tc nibd 

 These planted early tli. i tliin.,s b. m., i iu il will^n 

 good results tin- sann s is ii \\h\\ tliiis. pi mt d 1 di 

 will get well estabb hid btt uc winter, uid will bt m 

 excellent condition to start at nature s summons early 

 the following spring The hardy Nymphaeas differ con 

 siderably as to rootstocks Those of the natn e ^ ineties 

 are long and of a sp.mgy, soft texture, and rambling m 

 growth, wliilr the Kuro].i-an species have a niuc-li larger 

 and very tirm rootstock, and grow more conii'act. In 

 planting, all that is necessary is to press tlie rootstock 

 firmly into the soil, and if there is any danger of the 

 root rising to the surface, place a brick or any weight 

 upon it, to keep it in position until aiichore<l bv its own 

 roots. Tender Nvnipha-as should not be planted until 

 the latter end of jlav or l..giiiniiig of .hme. ai-cording to 

 location. They should not be i)lauted out before Cobus, 

 Alternanthera, and other temler beildiiig pl.aiits. They 

 require to be started indoors, and will be grown in 

 pots, which are much handier to plant than nx.ts of the 

 hardy varieties, and can be planted uiiib'r the water with 

 ease and facility. Nelumbiums should not be planted 

 until about the 1st of May. Southward the season is 

 earlier. The existing conditions should be such that 

 tubers shall start at once into active growth. Tliey should 

 be already "started" before setting out. The tubers 

 should be laid horizontally in a slightly excavated trench 

 and covered with 2 or 3 inches of soil, using a weight, 

 if necessary, to keep the tubers in position. Plants, 

 established in pots or p.ins, are very convenient for 

 planting, and may be purchased when tubers can no 

 longer be procured, and can be planted a month later in 

 the season with good results. 



The Victoria Hegia has always been an aristocrat 

 ■ among water-lilies, and few cultivators could indulge in 

 such a horticultural luxury. To grow it satisfactorily, 

 a large surface space with a greater depth of water is 

 necessary than for other aquatics, and a higher tempera- 

 ture is needed at the early stages. It can be cultivated in 

 the open air, but artificial heat must usually be applied 

 and protection afforded, so as to maintain a temperature 

 of 85° F. This applies more particularly to the varieties 

 r. Ncfiia and V. Jiandi. In 1898 the introducer of ('. 



AQUATICS 



8.3 



itbinc 



ph. 



TricJcrri brought tlii^ " 



ture .)f all l.iv.rs of : 



tirely .listiu.t fn.iu .. 



grown ill the open alongside of Njimplura Zamibarensis 



and iV. J)ei'0)iii;nsis, and under precisely the same con- 



sy reach and ( 

 '. Trickeri is 

 .■ties, and can be 



122 Lawn pui d ul aa 



ith mason-work maretn 



123. Tub of water-lilies. 



ditions. When planted out about the middle of June, 

 the plants grow rapidly, aud will develop their gigantic 

 leafage and magnificent flowers in August, and continne 

 to do so until destroyed by frost. 



Enemies.— Aquatics, like other plants, have their ene- 

 mies in the line of insect pests, though in a less degree 

 than most plants. Aphides are sometimes troublesome, 

 or at least very unsightly. These, however, have their 

 enemies, especially the eocclnella (lady-bird), insectiv- 

 orous birds, etc. Where these do not keep them down, 

 a weak application of kerosene emulsion will make a 

 clearance. Another method of getting rid of these pests, 

 especially in a small artificial pond, where an overflow is 

 {or should be) provided, is to take the hose with a spray, 

 using a little force, and drive the insects off the plants, 

 and, as they readily float on the water, the action with 

 the hose will drive them out at the overflow pipe. Re- 

 cently an insect pest that has its home in Florida has 

 migrated northward, causing some annoyance. The larva 

 of the moth {Eijdrovampa proprialis) eats the leaf, and 

 also cuts out pieces of the same, which it uses for protec- 

 tion, thereby greatly distigiiring the plant, and at the 

 same time making it ilifti.-idt t.. get at the enemy. The 

 best remedy fortius and th.- Xelumbium moth, which is 

 very much like it, is a lamp trap. Any ordinary lamp 

 placed near the plants at night, and standing in a shal- 

 low vesessl containing kerosene, will attract the insects, 

 which, on striking the lamp, fall into the kerosene and 

 are no further trouble. Musk rats are more or less 

 troublesome, especially where N.-lumbiums are grown. 

 They will eat the tubers in winter aud early spring, and 

 will make sad havoc with banks. They will also eat the 

 roots of some Nymphaeas. The best remedy for these is 

 the steel trap. A sporadic disease has also made its ap- 

 pearance. The leaves are affected with spots, which, 

 under a damp, warm atmosphere, spread rapidly. Such 

 climntic conditions, followed by bright sunshine, cause 

 thi iffe ted leaves to shrivel up. This greatly weakens 

 III 1 1 Is the plants. This disease yields readily to a 

 w ik lution of Bordeaux mixture. The same remedy 

 IS U I \(r\ valuable in ridding the pond of all con- 

 fei\oid growth. 



Tl b Ci LTl BE should be resorted to only from lack of 

 space or when no other method can be adopted (Fig. 12.")). 

 For this system of culture, Nymphaeas should be selected 

 that are moderate growers, yet free-flowering, and other 

 miscellaneous aquatic plants. The tubs should hold 

 from 4 to 12 cubic feet of soil for Nymphaeas, according 



