58 LIFE AND EXPERIENCES CHAP. 



the next night ; and thus he told the party the whole 

 story, forgetting altogether that he was giving them an 

 account of what was happening at the moment ! 



Six months after I first went to Heidelberg I passed 

 the examination for the doctorate with my friend Pauli 

 he died a few years afterwards of phthisis. I chose 

 for my subjects chemistry as a " Hauptfach," with 

 physics and mineralogy as "Nebenfacher." I had also 

 to construe a piece of Latin ; and the only concession 

 to my nationality was that I was allowed to translate 

 into English a passage from the jEneid, which Bahr, 

 the Professor of Latin, set me. The examinations 

 were, of course, entirely oral, and I suppose I must 

 have satisfied the examiners, for both Pauli and I re- 

 ceived the degree " summa cum laude," an honour for 

 me, as up to that time this highest degree had never 

 been conferred upon a foreigner. 



In the spring of 1854, in company with my mother 

 and sister and Mr. Edward Enfield, who was engaged 

 to my sister, I visited the most important cities in 

 North Germany and saw the usual sights. Berlin 

 at that time was not much more than an overgrown 

 village, with detestable pavements, shabby vehicles, 

 and medieval sanitary arrangements both as to water 

 supply and sewerage. There I made the acquaint- 

 ance of the two Roses Heinrich and Gustav. The 

 former occupied the only chemical laboratory open 

 to students, and it was but a poor affair. Mineralogy, 

 professed by the latter, was represented by a well- 

 ordered museum, but any mode of teaching the subject 

 otherwise than by inspecting the specimens was impos- 

 sible. Then Gustav Magnus received me most kindly, 

 as was his nature, and I saw the only physical cabinet 

 and laboratory existing in Berlin in his private house. 

 Dove, the celebrated meteorologist, whom I visited, had 



