134 the farmers' handbook. 



and this may make the task of withdrawing the bar more difficult, but it 

 was to avoid this that the taper was designed at the back or top side of the 

 bulb. In any case a 6-foot length of J-inch chain, double half-hitched round 

 the bar at the ground level, and then round a long rail or stout sapling, which 

 can be used as a lever, will soon release it. Any blacksmith can make this 

 implement ; in fact, it might easily be made on the farm at a moderate cost. 

 It will get through more than ten times as much work as the auger, and it will 

 ease much hard work. 



Wood augers (two) — The ordinary U-inch Mathieson wood auger similar 

 to the one the earth auger is made from, is a highly efficient tool, though a 

 good deal of trouble is often met with in getting it to start boring after it 

 has been withdrawn for clearing purposes — which is necessary from time to 

 time — on account of chips being left in when releasing the screw lead pre- 

 paratory to withdrawing. 



The L'Hommedieu or bull-nosed auger of lj-inch diameter is a rapid 

 and efficient wood-boring tool, but it needs a Mathieson auger to start 

 the hole ; usually an inch or two will suffice. It cuts quicker and with less 

 exertion to the operator, and when withdrawn for clearing out the hole — 

 as is necessary from time to time — it goes right down to the bottom at once, 

 making re-starting easy and simple. A handle or shank 4 feet 6 inches long 

 is a convenient length in each case. 



Chisel bar. — This is a most useful tool, and a practically indispensable imple - 

 ment when using explosives, as so many trees and stumps have large, 

 solid, or even hollow hip roots, partially under or very near the surface, where 

 a grubbed hole, somewhat similar to a rabbit hole, but smaller, allows the 

 charge to be bunched right up against the timber, causing a maximum amount 

 of shattering, a result that is very desirable for rapid burning off afterwards. 



The best way to make this implement is to have the centre portion, 

 between the two working ends, made of a piece of ordinary 1-inch black iron 

 piping 3 feet 6 inches long, the external diameter of which would be l£ 

 inches (galvanized piping will interfere with the welding of the steel terminals). 

 A piece of f-inch steel, 6 inches long, is then welded into each end of this 

 pipe length, one piece being drawn out to a cutter bar, 3 inches wide, ground 

 on the inside only and set back an inch or so as shown in the accompanying 

 illustration. The piece of steel at the other end is made as an ordinary 

 chisel bar, 1 inch wide and sharpened cold-chisel fashion; besides being 

 useful for grubbing charge holes, small and medium roots may easily be cut, 

 if met with during grubbing operations. 



Tamping stick. — This must always be of timber, about an inch in diameter, 

 and an old broom-handle about 5 feet long makes a most efficient one. 



Crimping pliers. — These are used for fixing the detonators on to the 

 safety fuse and cutting it into convenient lengths. Some people use their 

 teeth, but it is most unwise and should not be encouraged under any circum- 

 stances. (See Figs. 2, 4, and 5.) 



Electric firing battery. — This is used only where several charges have to 

 be exploded simultaneously, as there is no other reliable method. It is 

 mostly, if not entirely, used when it is desired to blow trees and stumps 

 right out of the ground. This firing battery is in no sense a chemical battery, 

 but is similar in operation to a magneto or dynamo. There are different 

 types on the market, varying from a capacity of a single shot, for coal-mine 

 work, up to fifty shots at one time ; in style Ihey also differ, ranging 



