872 THE farmers' handbook. 



Turning now to the two smaller planes, the method of gripping them with 

 the left hand is the same as with the larger planes. Slip the iron and wedge 

 into position, as described, then give the wedge a sharp tap with the hammer, 

 and inspect the sole of the plane as before (Figs. 10, 1*2, and 13). If the 

 iron is too far out, still holding the plane with the left hand, as before, give 

 the plane a light, sharp tap with the hammer on the back end of the plane 

 (Fig. 14) ■ this will draw the iron back a shade. If one corner of the iron 

 projects more than the other, give the top of the iron a tap the opposite way. 

 and again tighten the wedge. Finally, when the irons are set to satisfaction, 

 i>ive the wedge a couple of sharp taps, making the iron and wedge secure. 



The Use of the Planes. 



The correct handling of tools is one important factor in obtaining success 

 with them. In using the planes, the cori'ect position in which to stand at 

 the bench is with the feet about 2 feet 6 inches apart, the left foot parallel 

 with the bench and the right foot at right angle to the bench. This position 

 gives a firm foothold. The two large planes are held alike. The handle is 

 gripped with the right hand and the front top of the plane with the left 

 hand, the el how pointing directly ahead (see Figs. 15 and 16). 



In the case of the smoother, which has no handle, grip the back of the 

 plane with the right hand, at the same time holding the wedge and iron with 

 the thumb and first finger, and with the left hand grip the front of the 

 plane (see Fig. 17). The German jack is gripped at the back with the right 

 hand, just as in the use of the smoother, and the left hand takes hold of the 

 horn in front (see Fig. 18). 



A brief description of how to square a rough piece of sawn timber may he 

 of interest, as the initial part of any job. It is necessary first to know what 

 amount of reduction is required. Jf the rough timber is only to be reduced 

 one-eighth of an inch, for instance, the whole of that reduction must not be 

 taken off the first side, or the discovery will be made that the other side has 

 yet to be planed off and that there is no margin on which to do it without 

 spoiling the job. The first thing to do is to get one side absolutely true. 

 This involves getting the timber true as to length and breadth, and also as to 

 anything in the nature of a twist. It might be thought that provided timber 

 is true as to length and breadth it is absolutely true, but not necessarily so. 

 There may be a twist (or "wind') in it, and this must be carefully worked 

 out in getting the first side true. 



The German jack will be used to take the rough or "dirt" off, the jack 

 will partly straighten the piece of timber, and the trying-plane should make 

 it perfectly true. 



To ensure that it is free from a twist, two " winding sticks" are required. 

 These are two pieces of timber, each 12 inches long by 2| or 3 inches with 

 and ^ to i, ; inch thick. They are bevelled on one edge, and one has side 

 straight edge painted white while the other has the straight edge painted 

 black (see Fig. 19). To test a piece of timber, the two sticks are placed on the 

 timber and sighted to see that they are perfectly level. In the case of a long- 

 piece of timber the winding sticks should be tried in several places to make sure 

 that the face is perfectly level and uniform. If the winding sticks discover a 

 twist it must be planed out before the other sides of the timber are attempted. 



