THE HANDY MAN ON I UK FARM. 



SOLDERING AND BRAZING.* 



Snider is the name given to several different alloys used for the purpose of 

 making joints between different metals, which, if properly done, do not 

 onsisl merely <>f sticking the metals together, but form a real weld or a 

 fresh alloy. 



The composition varies very much. Every solder should, and must, be 

 more fusible than the metal to be united or joined together; therefore, hard 

 solders ran only be used on metals that will stand a high temperature 

 without melting. Soft solders melt at a low temperature, and may be more 

 generally used. 



In preparing to solder, the surfaces to he united must be perfectly clean 

 and lie close together, and the surfaces so cleaned must be protected from 

 the air by a coating of a suitable flux. The usual flux for iron and tin is 

 muriatic acid, more commonly ealled "spirits of salts," which is weakened or 

 killed by adding water or zinc. 



The Tools. 



The necessary tools required are a soldering iron, about 1 lb. weight ; a 

 block of sal ammoniac ; a small brush, usually made of horse-tail hair, bound 

 in a piece of tin as a handle ; a glass or earthenware pot to hold the spirits 

 of salts ; an old flat file ; an old pocket knife ; and a fire-pot. The last-named 

 is an oil-drum with a few holes in the bottom, and, say, three holes about 

 2 inches square in the sides, near the bottom, through which to pass the 

 irons while heating. Where much work is to be done, it is as well to have 

 at least two irons, so that one is in the fire while the other is in use. 



Wood and coke are the best fuels to use. 



The iron should be drawn out to a point (not sharp), about a quarter of an 

 inch, and slightly rounded off. To prepare it for use, it must first be 

 heated to a dull red heat, and the point for about 1 inch back filed clean 

 while hot ; then rub it on all sides on the sal ammoniac, lay a little solder on 

 it, and dip it into the killed spirits. This will tin the point of the iron, and 

 unless it is overheated in the fire when reheating, it should keep the tinning 

 for some time. The use of the sal ammoniac is sometimes dispensed with ; 

 but the tinning is not so good a job. Each time it is heated (not a red heat r 

 but just enough to melt the solder easily) it must be wiped off on a piece 

 of bag, or similar material, and the point dipped into the spirits. It is then 

 applied to the joint in such a way as to heat the metal, and the strap of 

 solder, placed against the point of the iron, runs into the joint and forms 

 the weld. Never use the iron if not hot enough to melt the solder easily. 



Solder. 



To make your own solder is the surest way to have the right sort. Melt 

 down, in an irOn pot, 2 parts lead and 1 part block tin ; and when melted, 

 the pot being red hot, skim off the refuse that floats on top. Then with a 

 ladle, first slightly heated, pour the solder into the hollows of a sheet of small 

 corrugated iron, making long or short sticks as required. This mixture will 

 do for ordinary work on galvanized iron or heavy tinware, such as dairy 

 cans. 



* A. Brooks, Works Overseer, Department of Agriculture. 



