LIFE OF JAMES DWIGHT DANA 



reached an open square, covered here a*nd there with a 

 little shrubbery, along which our route continued for an 

 hour or two with little to interest or attract attention. 

 As we advanced, however, the scenery of the mountains 

 increased in grandeur, and the acclivity became more 

 steep and difficult for the horses. Our ears were often 

 saluted with a noise much resembling the watchman's 

 rattle, which, on nearer approach, was found to proceed 

 from guanacos, an animal of the deer kind, which lives 

 on the mountain. After about four hours' toilsome ride, 

 we reached the summit of an elevated ridge, from which 

 we looked down on the surrounding country. It was a 

 most magnificent scene the fertile plains of Santiago, 

 the numerous mountain ridges surrounding it, and, tower- 

 ing above all, the Andes, mantled with snow and streaked 

 along as far as the eye could reach, make one of the most 

 glorious prospects any country can afford. We now 

 turned to the right, following along the summit of this 

 ridge, making a gradual ascent, and in the course of half 

 an hour came in sight of the snowy peak we had before 

 seen back in Santiago. A valley of about 4000 feet 

 separated us from it ; and from its bottom this peak rose 

 up to a height of at least 8000 feet, the most perfect 

 picture of utter desolation I ever witnessed. It was a 

 scene that I not only saw, but could feel through my 

 whole system, it was so impressively, so awfully grand. 

 It appeared like an immense volcano whose fires were but 

 just extinguished. We continued in sight of the peak 

 the remainder of our route, and gradually diminished the 

 deptn of the valley that separated us from it as we pro- 

 gressed. At four o'clock P.M. we reached the region of 

 snow, and a desolate region it was. A few turfy Alpine 

 plants were seen where a streamlet was running down the 

 valleys, all else was dreary and lifeless. We collected 

 some of the plants and rocks, and as it began to grow 

 dark soon after sundown about 6 P.M. we early prepared 

 for our night's accommodations. We laid down our furs, 

 etc., which we had brought up under our saddles, and 

 formed as soft a place as we could to rest our bodies, 

 placed the saddles near our heads to keep off the winds, 

 and then snugly stowed ourselves away under three thick 

 blankets. The winds whistled over us by night, and in 

 the morning we found ice one-half an inch thick but a 



1 06 



