The Home Fruit-garden .' 357 



it starts into growth in the spring the number of buds is 

 so great that the supply of moisture from the roots will be 

 insufficient to sustain a vigorous growth, and all may finally 

 fail; while if the larger part of the branches had been removed 

 the few buds that remain would start vigorously and sufficient 

 moisture be supplied to sustain continuous and rapid growth 

 until new roots and vigorous leaf-surface is formed, without 

 which good growth cannot take place. 



In pruning young fruit-trees for transplanting all branches 

 not needed for the formation of a symmetrical head should 

 be removed, and those remaining be shortened in more or 

 less, according to the amount of injury to the roots. Young 

 trees with few lateral branches are often trimmed up to a 

 "whip-stock." This is especially the practice with peach- 

 trees. In planting young trees the roots should be spread 

 out as much as possible, placed at the depth they stood in 

 the nursery, and fine rich soil worked in closely about them 

 and tramped firmly. No chemical fertilizers should be put 

 in contact with roots, but an abundance of finely ground 

 bone may be used. 



Planting Fruit-trees, Vines, and Plants 



The best time and the methods of planting have already 

 been discussed on pages 53 to 61, which see. All trees 

 should have been ordered in the fall or very early in the 

 spring, and everything if possible be in readiness for planting 

 when the trees arrive. Trees or plants never should be 

 planted when the soil is so full of moisture as to be sticky or 

 compact into solid masses when pressed, but be in condition 

 to crumble finely when turned over with the spade or plough. 

 The subsoil thrown out in digging the holes should never 

 be put close about the roots, but after planting be spread 

 about on the surface and only good soil be used about the 

 roots. 



