The Home Fruit-garden 359 



used and never the axe, as the latter cracks the wood more 

 or less and decay will follow much more quickly than if the 

 saw is used. In removing large branches always cut on the 

 under side of the branch first, that when it falls the bark may 

 not be torn from the trunk. Some of the suckers that come 

 out along the main branches should be removed while they are 

 soft and can be easily rubbed off, that the growth that would 

 go into them if allowed to remain may go into the permanent 

 growth of the tree. Some of these suckers or sprouts should 

 be allowed to grow, especially those on the lower main 

 branches, to renew and take the place of those that are weak. 



The tops of trees that tend to grow too tall and spind- 

 ling should be pinched off before they have made much 

 growth, thus forcing the growth into the lower branches, 

 where it is much more desired. Cuts made at the ends of 

 the branches do little or no harm to the vitality of the 

 tree. 



The rule should be to prune from the top branches rather 

 than from the lower branches. Many old trees are much 

 benefited by cutting large branches from the top and center, 

 thus forcing growth into the lower branches where they may 

 be more easily sprayed and the fruit picked. 



Special Treatment for Growing Fruits 



THE APPLE 



This is one of the most healthful and easily grown of all of 

 the fruits of the temperate zone. It succeeds best in a deep 

 moist loam and begins to bear crops of some value at from 

 five to ten years from planting. For the best result it 

 should be planted at from 30 to 40 feet apart, according to 

 the variety and nature of the soil; such varieties as the 

 Baldwin, King, Roxbury Russet, Gravenstein, etc., on rich 

 land will need the larger space, while on a light soil the 



