/ET. 28.] TO THE MISSES TORRE Y. 155 



taken from us and provisional ones given, which per- 

 mitted us to go on to Paris, and for which we each had 

 to pay two francs ; we were then allowed to go to a 

 hotel and get our breakfast, a privilege which most of 

 us were not slow to avail ourselves of. I made a hearty 

 meal of cold roast beef, cafe au lait, excellent bread, 

 and delicious butter. The two last I have found ever 

 since I have been in France. I gave my keys to the 

 commissionaire of the hotel to get my luggage through 

 the custom-house, and, my place being taken in the 

 diligence for Paris at two o'clock, having nothing 

 else to do, I went to the custom-house to see the exam- 

 ination of the luggage. Lazy custom-house officers 

 and gendarmes were lounging about, while heavy carts 

 loaded with baggage were drawn up from the boat by 

 women ! and this while it was raining hard, and the 

 poor creatures were without hats or bonnets, and 

 had only a handkerchief or a bit of cloth tied over 

 their heads. So much for this self-styled most refined 

 and polite nation ! I noticed the poor things when 

 their task was done and they were waiting to convey 

 the trunks, etc., from the custom-house to the various 

 hotels. Some were chatting in groups, apparently quite 

 content with their lot ; a few were sleeping, and many, 

 with the characteristic industry of their sex, produced 

 their knitting-work from their pockets and were busily 

 employed at a more appropriate and feminine employ- 

 ment. I was amused at the strictness with which three 

 exceedingly unpleasant-looking fellows searched all our 

 baggage, that of the ladies not less than that of the 

 men. Little parcels were opened, dirty linen was over- 

 hauled and most minutely inspected ; the whole scene 

 would have made a fit subject for the pencil of Ho- 

 garth. My traveling-bag was examined from top to 



