*:T. 28.] JOURNAL. 197 



kind of churches, which were mostly established upon 

 the foundations of ancient temples, or they were these 

 temples themselves turned into churches. . . . 



As I emerged from the Coliseum I stood between 

 the Palatine and the Coelian Hills, the Arch of Con- 

 stantine just before me, the Arch of Titus in view on 

 the right hand, and just beyond the Roman Forum, 

 all crowded with ruins ; the very soil is mouldering 

 brickwork and fragments of columns. Here I spent 

 the greater part of the morning, silent and undis- 

 turbed, finding out by the description the ruins as they 

 presented themselves. . . . 



The journal is so long that most of the Italian, more 

 especially the Roman, journey must be omitted. Dr. 

 Gray, as is shown, was a busy sightseer, enjoying the 

 historical and romantic associations with his natural 

 enthusiasm. Here began his great love of painting, 

 of sculpture, and of architecture ; he carried the de- 

 tails of churches and cathedrals in his memory re- 

 markably, recognizing quickly a print or photograph 

 of something he had seen perhaps thirty years before ; 

 he had the memory for form which helped him so 

 much in his science. He was a good critic of paint- 

 ing and enjoyed extremely his favorite pictures, liking 

 to wander off alone to enjoy them. Titian on the 

 whole ranked highest in his estimation. He enjoyed 

 much of the old church music, though his preference 

 in music was for simple songs, hymns especially, and 

 the old tunes to which words had long been wedded. 

 There are many quotations from Byron and Rogers in 

 the original journal. For Byron, with his brilliant 

 descriptions and versification, he always kept much 

 feeling ; and his great love of natural scenery had 

 full play. 



