^T. 28.] JOURNAL. 203 



very much quicker than had ever been done before ! 

 to the great wonderment of the guides, as he said, 

 and as I do not doubt. This was his chef d'oauvre, 

 and I assure you he felt quite proud of it. I laughed 

 most heartily at the absurdity of the thing, until I 

 reflected how rapidly I had been doing the sights my- 

 self, and felt I might justly come in for a share of the 

 ridicule. In this day's journey I think I outdid the 

 Yankee, for, arriving at Bologna about five o'clock, I 

 immediately made arrangements for going on to Fer- 

 rara the same night, and this accomplished, I had but 

 two or three hours to spend at Bologna, a city fa- 

 mous for its university and its sausages ; the former 

 decayed almost to nothing, the latter still in great de- 

 mand, diffusing their abominable garlic odor from 

 every table. I visited all the large churches, took 

 some coffee, and before nine o'clock was on my way 

 through the vast plain watered by the Po, which, like 

 most large rivers, branches near its mouth into sev- 

 eral streams. The lad who drove me did not know 

 the road very well, and lost his way several times, so 

 that instead of arriving before daybreak it was six 

 o'clock in the morning when we entered Ferrara. In- 

 deed he came near losing his horse as well as the 

 road, for while I was sleeping soundly in the carriage 

 I was roused by a prodigious clatter, and jumping out 

 as quick as I could, found that he had driven into a 

 heap of rough stones deposited to mend the road ; the 

 horse had slipped and was lying flat upon his back in 

 the bottom of the ditch. With much ado we liber- 

 ated him from the carriage and lifted him out of the 

 ditch, repaired the injury to the harness as well as 

 we could with bits of rope, and were again on our 

 way. I have wondered since how I could ride thus 



