^T. 28.] JOURNAL. 257 







and grandest pass across the Alps. It is a footpath, 

 or at best a bridle-path. I set out alone, with my 

 knapsack on my back. Ascended a considerable dis- 

 tance when the clouds sunk lower and it began to rain, 

 though I had the satisfaction to see down the valley 

 that the sun was shining at Meyringen. Passed the 

 last little village (Guttannen), a lonely place ; above, 

 the scenery grew to the very height of gloomy gran- 

 deur : immense blackened granitic mountains, clothed 

 at the base with black stunted firs, above all naked tre- 

 mendous rocks and peaks ; between, just room enough 

 for the river to tumble along, forming here and there 

 a cataract. The view was heightened much, I doubt 

 not, by the clouds and storm, so entirely in character 

 with the scenery. I never before enjoyed a lonely 

 rainy walk so much. 



At the height of about 4,500 feet, and in the midst of 

 the very wildest and most lonely scenery, reached the 

 falls of the Aar at Handek, the finest in Switzerland, 

 indeed the only sublime waterfall here ; viewed it 

 first from below, then from the rude bridge thrown 

 across just a few feet above where it leaps into the 

 awful gorge. The scenery and all is in character, and 

 for savage grandeur I have seen nothing to compare 

 with it. Stopped at the chalet near, the only dwelling 

 within some miles ; waited a little for the rain to sub- 

 side, and finding that even here a traveler's first wants 

 had been pretty well provided for, I made an early but 

 most excellent dinner upon bread, butter, cheese, and 

 honey, the last especially excellent. No signs of better 

 weather ; so started on, passing a spot where falling 

 avalanches every winter and spring had swept over a 

 vast space of rock and completely worn it smooth ; was 

 now above trees, with here and there a bit of scanty 



