578 TRAVEL IN EUROPE AND AMERICA. [1869, 



be taken up the cataracts, or secure fitting weather, 

 the excursion up to Philae was made by most of the 

 party, on camels or donkeys (I greatly prefer the lat- 

 ter), and the very picturesque scenery enjoyed. 



January 16 and 17 were grand days, going up the 

 cataracts, our boats in charge of the Nubians. The 

 first day, Saturday, sailed up to the rapids and were 

 drawn up the first severe one, a hard pull and 

 barely room to get our larger boat through; 17th, a 

 quiet Sunday, in still water between upper and lower 

 rapids ; under most picturesque surroundings of river, 

 rock, and desert, here strangely mingled, and a hot 

 cloudless sun; had service and much enjoyed Church's 

 sermon No. 3. Climbing one of the rugged masses of 

 rock toward sunset, had a fine distant view of lovely 

 Philae. Monday, 18th, the army of Nubians again took 

 hold of our boats, and with noises indescribable and 

 persevering efforts the boats were drawn, one by one, 

 up the final and worst fall ; we were in calm water 

 before sunset, and at dusk were moored close to Philae, 

 which we got charming views of, from the opposite 

 shore next morning at sunrise ; came up and made a 

 brief visit to the ruins after breakfast, and sailed on 

 with a beautiful breeze, when suddenly, about twenty 

 miles on, the rudder of the Ibis gave way (injured 

 probably in the cataracts), and for forty-eight hours 

 we lay by near a Nubian hamlet (climbed the moun- 

 tains on Arabian side ; got wonderful views of desert, 

 rock on this side, reddish-yellow sand on the other), 

 while Antonio, the dragoman, with rowboat went back 

 to Philae, and thence by land to Assouan, whence on 

 camel brought up new rudder-post, workmen, etc., re- 

 instated the rudder, and January 21, afternoon we 

 were off again. 



