58 In the Heart of Africa 



behind the chairs on which we were sitting with the Sultan, as 

 well as opposite them, forming a lane, and awaiting the appear- 

 ance of the gifts with painfully subdued excitement. And they 

 came — came in endless succession. In front was a milch cow, 

 whose calf was carried behind. She was intended to represent 

 the greatest honour that could befall me. She was followed by 

 ten oxen, with immense horns, and then a never-ending herd 

 of goats. Flock followed flock, fresh contingents constantly 

 rolling up and overflowing the cantonment. They were suc- 

 ceeded by an endless chain of heavy-laden Wahutu, with hun- 

 dreds of loads, consisting of meal, milk, honey, butter, beans 

 and bananas. After them appeared other trains bearing fire- 

 wood — which was rare in the neighbourhood, and therefore par- 

 ticularly valuable. All these treasures were stored away in the 

 camp, but the stock were driven into a hedged enclosure and 

 placed under the guardianship of an Askari patrol. The pro- 

 cession had taken nearly an hour to pass by. Von Grawert him- 

 self, in spite of his lengthy term of office as Resident, declared 

 that he had never before witnessed such an imposing spectacle. 



The great and overwhelming fear of a refusal of the gifts 

 having passed, Msinga's court breathed freely again. The visit 

 was at an end, and with solemn farewells the sovereign entered 

 his litter and was borne away, followed by a forest of five 

 hundred spears. An ineffaceable impression! 



The return visit in the afternoon was conducted with as much 

 splendour as it was possible for a travelling caravan to offer. 

 In addition to the ordinary gifts of stuffs and beads customary 

 in the country, others were specially selected with the hope of 

 " lightening up the countenance of the ruler " and rejoicing his 

 heart. Any real equivalent to his own gifts was, of course, 

 impossible. Preceded by Askari with flying flags, followed by 

 all the "boys," each carrying a present in his outstretched arms, 

 and with horns blowing, we entered the Sultan's courtyard, which 

 is brightly and cleanly kept, and passed on to the palace, which 

 is bordered round by a hedging of wicker-work and papyrus. 

 After an interchange of the customary greetings and when we 



