64 In the Heart of Africa 



off in boats when he visited that part later on a tour of in- 

 spection. I will now let Mildbraed report in his own words 

 upon their journey, which, though of short duration, was rich 

 in the results : 



"After the breaking-up of the main caravan, w^e marched 

 off towards the south-west on the 12th of August. First we 

 bade an affecting farewell to Msinga and our friends Nanturu 

 and Bussissi, who had appeared to us like forms from a 

 mythical land on that memorable morning in the camp before 

 the Niawarongo. Msinga gave us, as guide and quartermaster, 

 a young Mtussi named Miniago, a brother of the Mtnale of 

 Ischangi, who was to be permitted to return to his home ; 

 common report had it that he had been summoned to the court 

 to answer for various follies. Certainly, the young man's general 

 appearance was not one to inspire very great confidence. He was 

 long and lean, but very coarse-boned. After the many fine- 

 looking Watuales we had seen, his face appeared of very 

 common cast to us, and a woollen blanket which had once been 

 red in colour did not do much towards heightening his charms. 

 Our lack of confidence, however, decreased by degrees, for he 

 proved himself an excellent courier. 



" I doubt whether travelling in any part of the world is 

 pleasanter than in Africa, with good Wanjamwesi carriers, but 

 certainly nowhere in Africa is it more so than in Ruanda, when 

 accompanied by a Mtussi. A short shauri (consultation) between 

 the leader and the vitiiale, or subordinate chieftain of the district, 

 secures everything required in the way of provisions or other 

 pressing need. Whenever I have had to select a place for en- 

 campment, I have always done so with great care and thought 

 for special details. That water should be close at hand, that 

 the site for the tents should be level and secure from inundation 

 by storms, that there should be plenty of shade and yet a clear, 

 free view of the country be obtainable, are all conditions with 

 which a camping place should comply if comfort is desired after 

 a march. Miniago relieved us of all trouble in this respect, and 



