76 In the Heart of Africa 



Kalundura, and then, for the last time before reaching Ischangi, 

 at Katosoma. We here encountered the first spell of rain which 

 we had experienced since starting away from Lake Victoria, apart 

 from an insignificant shower at Lake Mohasi. The tents had to 

 be pitched in the rain ; the cook had to perform his task in the 

 rain ; and our souls were filled with gloomy forebodings of the 

 lesser rainy season which was approaching, so spoilt had we 

 become with the uninterrupted fine weather of the dry season ! In 

 the evening an Askari reached us bearing a letter from Grawert, 

 in which he bade us get along to Ischangi as quickly as possible, 

 as he was desirous of making a further move. 



" We arrived at the pretty outpost station on the 27th of 

 August. Near the end of our journey our way had led us past a 

 dilapidated hut under a giant solitary tree, the hallowed resting- 

 spot, ' Bergfrieden,' where Kandt, the poet of Ruanda, had 

 dwelt, and also past a lonely grave in which Professor Lamp, 

 the astronomer of the Kiwu Boundary Commission, was laid in 

 his last resting-place far away from home." 



Whilst the events just described were taking place, Wiese and 

 I were pushing on towards Kiwu, accompanied by Captain von 

 Grawert. On our first day's march out from Niansa we found 

 our wealth of livestock a decided encumbrance! Embarras de 

 richesse! A broad, deep swamp had to be crossed, and our 

 smaller and weaker goats stuck fast in it. To pull out the 

 exhausted animals involved considerable delay, and thus cut 

 short our day's march. It was late at night before the caravan, 

 with its complement of human beings and cattle, was fully re- 

 united. In order to avoid a repetition of such an incident, we sent 

 the herds along a few hours in advance of the caravan, in com- 

 panies of from two to three hundred. 



The following day's march was again greatly delayed while 

 crossing the Niawarongo — which we passed here for the second 

 time — and our stock was again to blame. Although, thanks to 

 our new tactics, the obstruction occurred earlier on the route, 

 several hours elapsed before the main party was landed in safety 



