78 In the Heart of Africa 



abandoning ourselves to a thoroughly enjoyable swim, a pleasure 

 which had long been denied us. 



Our twenty-three boats — dug-out canoes — manned by six or 

 eight rowers, according to size, lay concealed in the sedgy reed- 

 grass waiting to bear us across the lake to Kissenji. The boats 

 are approximately ten metres in length, with a small draught, 

 and are very narrow. There is barely sufficient room on the seats 

 for the two rowers, who drive the canoes through the water like 

 arrows with their powerful arms, using heart-shaped, carved 

 paddles. As the excessively narrow boats naturally allow only 

 the most indispensable loads to be water-borne, the main caravan 

 had to direct its steps to Kissenji along the eastern coast under 

 the leadership of Czeczatka and Weidemann. 



In the evening, which turned out clear and still, I made a 

 short farewell excursion alone to the centre of the lake in a 

 folding boat. If it had not been for the black forms of the 

 natives squatting on the hills round about, I might have imagined 

 that I was gliding over the waters of a lake in my native land. 



We were awakened in the early morning by the loud cries of 

 the oarsmen and carriers, so that the notes of the unkindly bugle 

 which generally broke our morning sleep were rendered super- 

 fluous. 



Thanks to the rehearsal of the previous day, the stowage of 

 all loads was got through in comparative comfort, and the signal 

 for general departure was given by seven o'clock. We waved our 

 hands to the marching caravan on the banks, and then our flotilla 

 set out on the voyage. 



With the water foaming at our bows, and with the character- 

 istic songs of the baharia (oarsmen) ringing in our ears, we sped 

 along over the smooth surface of the lake. It was a cool morning, 

 and it was not until the sun began to gild the mountain tops that 

 a grateful warmth made itself felt. And so the hours flew on. 

 The creek widened out, and we reached open water, where a sharp 

 breeze set in and retarded the less well-manned boats. Choppy, 

 unfriendly waves splashed up against the sides and drenched the 

 occupants. We saw very few water-fowl, and it was only now 



